Riesling

It's easy to forget that at one time the celebrated  vineyards of northern Europe were nothing more than wooded hillsides. The Romans, who generally took the long view of things, planted vines wherever they thought there was a chance they would thrive. The further north they moved, the more challenging viticulture became. In higher northern latitudes the cold can be severe enough to winter-kill vines; sunlight so meager grapes do not ripen sufficiently to make a  stable, palatable wine.

It's easy to forget that at one time the celebrated  vineyards of northern Europe were nothing more than wooded hillsides. The Romans, who generally took the long view of things, planted vines wherever they thought there was a chance they would thrive. The further north they moved, the more challenging viticulture became. In higher northern latitudes the cold can be severe enough to winter-kill vines; sunlight so meager grapes do not ripen sufficiently to make a  stable, palatable wine.

5 medium bone-in pork loin chops 1 pound boneless lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, with or without skin 4 strips bacon 4 eggs 1/2 bunch fresh parsley 2 large Spanish onions or 3 medium leeks 10 medium Yukon Gold potatoes 2 cloves garlic Salt and pepper 2 bay leaves 2 1/2 cups Alsatian riesling or other unoaked white wine

Despite the annual cycle of vintages and stately chateaux that project an air of calm permanence, the world of wine is really a tumultuous place. As in any other industry, fashions and trends drive sales; regions fall in and out of favor; varieties are darlings one moment, duds the next. No wonder consumers find the process of buying wine mystifying, and a bit overwhelming - especially at the holidays. If you're eager to fill out some wine lover's stocking with a special bottle this year, we suggest cutting out the tumult by focusing on guidelines rather than specifics.

In 1991 Antonella Tacci and Raimondo Lombardi left corporate jobs in Milan to make wine fifty miles south in the commune of Rovescala. The little town has barely 1000 inhabitants, but more than 150 farms and a reasonable claim to be the birthplace of the bonarda grape. At their winery, Azienda Agricola Martilde , bonarda gets special attention - though in fact the varietal grown in the region( Oltrepo Pavese ) isn't bonarda at all but croatina. They also work with barbera, uva rara, pinot noir, malvasia and riesling italico.

WATKINS GLEN, N.Y. -- We ducked our heads as the boom came across the deck. Captain Doug Hazlitt was tacking the schooner Malabar X to head straight up Lake Seneca. Then we extended our glasses as the wine steward appeared, pouring samples of the red and white (and one virulently pink) wines of Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards. It was certainly one of the more unusual tastings we've ever experienced, but the vintners of New York's Finger Lakes go to great lengths to capture the attention of American wine drinkers.

Despite the annual cycle of vintages and stately chateaux that project an air of calm permanence, the world of wine is really a tumultuous place. As in any other industry, fashions and trends drive sales; regions fall in and out of favor; varieties are darlings one moment, duds the next. No wonder consumers find the process of buying wine mystifying, and a bit overwhelming - especially at the holidays. If you're eager to fill out some wine lover's stocking with a special bottle this year, we suggest cutting out the...

This is (part of) the set up for the by-the-glass wine program at chef Michael Leviton's spanking new spot, Area Four , on Main St. between Kendall and Central in Cambridge. Except for the couple of sparklers on offer, all the wines here come out of stainless steel kegs (tops with their fittings are just visible in the cabinet beneath the countertop). To the left of the six taps in the photo stand rows of pot-bellied tumblers, and the half-liter and one-liter bottles with porcelain stoppers they fill with wine.

It seems there are as many theories about what wines pair best with a traditional Thanksgiving dinner as there are recipes for cranberry sauce. OK, maybe not that many - but a lot in any case. You needn’t fear that we’re going to subject you to a lengthy enumeration of said theories; on the contrary, we’re going to shortcut the whole contentious business by providing you with a single infallible guideline that anyone can commit to memory in two seconds: Drink what you like. We arrive at this conclusion on the basis of years of empirical research carried on over...

Café Polonia’s timing couldn’t have been any better. The North Shore spinoff of the popular Polish restaurant in South Boston opened in Salem just before Halloween, and even though the holiday’s crowds have dissipated, the restaurant is still busy with locals who are coping with the temperature drop by packing themselves with warm pierogies. We visited the new location on an especially cold and wet weekend night. The restaurant’s warm colors and décor immediately put us in a better mood.

This is (part of) the set up for the by-the-glass wine program at chef Michael Leviton's spanking new spot, Area Four , on Main St. between Kendall and Central in Cambridge. Except for the couple of sparklers on offer, all the wines here come out of stainless steel kegs (tops with their fittings are just visible in the cabinet beneath the countertop). To the left of the six taps in the photo stand rows of pot-bellied tumblers, and the half-liter and one-liter bottles with porcelain stoppers they fill with wine.

In 1991 Antonella Tacci and Raimondo Lombardi left corporate jobs in Milan to make wine fifty miles south in the commune of Rovescala. The little town has barely 1000 inhabitants, but more than 150 farms and a reasonable claim to be the birthplace of the bonarda grape. At their winery, Azienda Agricola Martilde , bonarda gets special attention - though in fact the varietal grown in the region( Oltrepo Pavese ) isn't bonarda at all but croatina. They also work with barbera, uva rara, pinot noir, malvasia and riesling italico.

5 medium bone-in pork loin chops 1 pound boneless lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, with or without skin 4 strips bacon 4 eggs 1/2 bunch fresh parsley 2 large Spanish onions or 3 medium leeks 10 medium Yukon Gold potatoes 2 cloves garlic Salt and pepper 2 bay leaves 2 1/2 cups Alsatian riesling or other unoaked white wine

Café Polonia’s timing couldn’t have been any better. The North Shore spinoff of the popular Polish restaurant in South Boston opened in Salem just before Halloween, and even though the holiday’s crowds have dissipated, the restaurant is still busy with locals who are coping with the temperature drop by packing themselves with warm pierogies. We visited the new location on an especially cold and wet weekend night. The restaurant’s warm colors and décor immediately put us in a better mood.

It seems there are as many theories about what wines pair best with a traditional Thanksgiving dinner as there are recipes for cranberry sauce. OK, maybe not that many - but a lot in any case. You needn’t fear that we’re going to subject you to a lengthy enumeration of said theories; on the contrary, we’re going to shortcut the whole contentious business by providing you with a single infallible guideline that anyone can commit to memory in two seconds: Drink what you like. We arrive at this conclusion on the basis of years of empirical research carried on over many a gravy-stained tablecloth.

WATKINS GLEN, N.Y. -- We ducked our heads as the boom came across the deck. Captain Doug Hazlitt was tacking the schooner Malabar X to head straight up Lake Seneca. Then we extended our glasses as the wine steward appeared, pouring samples of the red and white (and one virulently pink) wines of Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards. It was certainly one of the more unusual tastings we've ever experienced, but the vintners of New York's Finger Lakes go to great lengths to capture the attention of American wine drinkers.