We order the special appetizers, duck confit tacos ($12) and mushroom ravioli ($5). Ravioli comes as one large, tender stuffed pasta, filled with mushrooms cooked in brown butter, with thyme and fresh basil, sprinkled with Romano cheese. Tacos are a colorful tableau with grilled scallions, a smear of chickpea puree, and a cranberry prosecco coulis that adds a sweet note. We love the pulled pork tacos ($10), sweet and smoky and stuffed with a black bean salsa and a drizzle of cilantro-lime aioli. Happily, these three corn tortillas hold together well, no falling apart onto the plate.
There’s a section on the menu dubbed “Paramount Classics,’’ which are customer favorites. Teriyaki glazed salmon ($18) is in this category and outstanding. Pan-roasted to a perfect silky texture, with a sprinkling of macadamia nuts, the salmon is perched on a bed of stir-fried vegetable lo mein featuring mushrooms, broccoli, carrots, and peppers.
Another classic is chicken Marsala ($16), which comes with mashed potatoes that have a beautiful texture; green beans are bright and cooked just right. The chicken is in a creamy, sweet sauce with lots of sauteed crimini mushrooms, but there’s a tad too much of it.
Braised short rib pasta ($17) is not a particularly pretty plate, but the dish itself is pleasing, a mound of tender, flavorful meat, mushrooms, and fat pappardelle noodles.
Better is braised short rib pot roast ($17), a simple, delicious dish, just the tender-to-the-fork beef, cooked with white truffle oil, and served with a celery root puree.
Fallen chocolate cake ($7) is velvety and rich, with dabs of raspberry and mango puree, a dollop of whipped cream, and a few fresh strawberries. Also excellent is banana bread pudding ($7), a large slab, both firm and moist, with slices of the yellow fruit, vanilla ice cream, and a drizzle of caramel sauce. Both are a lovely end to a fine meal.