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Kurt Timmermeister leaves the kitchen and turns to farming

G Force

THIS STORY APPEARED IN
Boston Articles
February 08, 2012|By Glenn Yoder

WHO: Kurt Timmermeister

WHAT: In his book, ‘‘Growing a Farmer: How I Learned to Live Off the Land,’’ Timmermeister traces his path from young Seattle-based restaurant owner to rookie farmer to artisan cheese maker. He’s currently writing a second book, ‘‘Growing a Feast,’’ which will follow one dinner built entirely from his farm and brought to the table.

Q. What was your first step to becoming a farmer?

A. I bought a piece of land with very little expectation or design to what I would turn it into. But I knew that I liked it. I think we know what we want even if we don’t consciously know. I cleared some land that could loosely be termed a pasture and then someone gave me some sheep, which I had no knowledge of whatsoever, and they were pregnant. Then they had these baby lambs and they were really beautiful and somehow grew on this scrappy slab of land. Then I slaughtered them for a barbecue. It was one of the moments that you remember in life when things change. It was the most extraordinary food I’m sure I ever had. It was the most beautiful meat I’ve probably had since. And then you get a taste for it and you’re like, maybe I should grow apples because they’re probably pretty good too, I should get cows because the beef will be good, milk would be good. And then you’re just on this roll.

Q. Did you encounter setbacks?

A. I started growing vegetables for farmers’ markets. It’s easy to get into and it’s very quick since you can turn around vegetables in a few weeks. What I didn’t really understand was that I had really crappy land and it was so not suited for vegetable farming. They didn’t grow well and I wasn’t particularly good at it. It’s not a profitable part of small farms anyway, so that was probably the biggest letdown.

Q. When did you make the focus dairy farming?

A. I got one cow and had a little raw milk to sell along with the vegetables. And it gets to the point where you realize you want to spend more time with the cow than weeding the carrots. Pretty soon you get a second cow and a third cow and suddenly they start having calves. It suited me well and the land was appropriate. And then I realized I could make cheese and turned a corner. The farm could be profitable; that never would have happened with the vegetables.

Q. Do you think your experience as a restaurateur gave you an advantage?

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