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Eat free or die

alex beam

THIS STORY APPEARED IN
Boston Articles
February 07, 2012|By Alex Beam

Have you heard of the “food sovereignty’’ movement, sometimes called the “food rights’’ campaign? Its proponents, mainly small, independent farmers and their clientele, want to eat and sell the food they grow free from interference from state and federal regulators. They like to compare themselves to the civil rights crusaders of the 1960s. I’d call that a stretch, but you can make your own conclusions.

Everyone knows that cool trends - converting parking spaces into mini-parks, for instance - begin in California, but food sovereignty seems to have started in New England. Roughly a year ago, Sedgwick, Maine, enacted a “Local Food and Community Self-Governance Ordinance.’’ Invoking the Declaration of Independence and the Maine Constitution, the ordinance declared that “Sedgwick citizens possess the right to produce, process, sell, purchase, and consume local foods of their choosing. . . . We hold that federal and state regulations impede local food production and constitute a usurpation of our citizens’ right to foods of their choice.’’

Soon after, several other Maine towns followed suit. The contagion spread to two towns in Vermont and, improbably, to Los Angeles County, population 9.8 million. The County’s Board of Supervisors is considering a “Resolution recognizing the rights of individuals to grow and consume their own food and to enter into private contracts with other individuals to board animals for food.’’

The big picture is clear. An ever-increasing number of independent farmers and health-conscious consumers no longer believe that the Department of Agriculture, the Food and Drug Administration, and corporations such as Tyson Foods and Monsanto have the public’s best interest in mind. Scanning the “most notable foodborne illness outbreaks of 2011’’ listed in Food Safety News, who can argue with them?

Example: “On Dec. 16, Hannaford, a Scarborough, Maine-based grocery chain, recalled fresh ground beef products that may have been contaminated with a strain of Salmonella Typhimurium.’’ Sixteen people fell ill.

Example: “A multistate outbreak of Listeria monocytogenes was associated with consumption of cantaloupe’’; 146 people fell ill.

And so on.

In fairness, several virulent outbreaks were attributed to “natural’’ agriculture, e.g., “Raw milk products produced by Organic Pastures were recalled and quarantined by the State of California after five children . . . were infected with the same strain of E. coli O157:H7.’’

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