Best and worst of Paris and Milan’s men’s fashion shows

STYLE

January 24, 2012|By Christopher Muther

(jacques brinon/associated press)

Designer Oleg Cassini, who famously dressed Jackie Kennedy during her White House years, observed: “Fashion anticipates, and elegance is a state of mind.’’

Living proof of Cassini’s quote just stalked the runways at menswear fashion shows in Paris and Milan. (The women’s couture shows are now underway). Showing styles for the Fall/Winter 2013 season, design houses such as agnes b., Thom Browne, and Givenchy attempted to anticipate the future, while Louis Vuitton and Kenzo opted for a gentleman’s view of updated masculine elegance.

Menswear designers in general face a big challenge because unlike women, men - specifically the variety who sit at the husband bench at the mall - are not so easily persuaded to ditch a navy sweater simply because olive green has come into vogue. Additionally, in a bumpy economy, men are even less prone to hit the shops. That said, here’s a look at what may work with buyers and what’s best left on the design room floor.

THE RETURN OF THE CLASSIC TIE: This may sound as exciting as dry toast, but after years of ties as thin as celery stalks, neckwear, such as the ties shown by Viktor & Rolf, is growing again, back to a more flattering width suitable for a wider audience.

TURTLENECKS: Another staple that enjoyed a comeback on the runway is this very practical neck warming sweater. DSquared2 turtlenecks may elicit some yawns, but there’s nothing wrong with giving a man what he wants.

LEATHER: After sweeping women’s fashion for the past two seasons, smartly tailored leather jackets, particularly bombers and leather trench coats, found their way to the men’s runway in both classic and avant garde shapes. Jil Sander’s leather trenches were a rare combination of fashion-forward and dangerously sexy.

MILITARY: Unlike the epaulets that seemed to grow out of the shoulder of every jacket during the 2000s, this round of military influences stresses masculinity over fad-following. Designers such as Kris Van Assche for Christian Dior opted to show the influence with bomber jackets and dark army green.

THE MAN SKIRT: No matter how many times it shows up in men’s fashion - and it always does - the man skirt will not permeate men’s fashion anytime in the near future. Still, that didn’t stop Commes de Garcon Homme Plus Sport. Just because dudes now carry man purses does not mean skirts are on the horizon.

BIZARRE FACE MASKS: We completely understand that these hats are considered art rather than day-to-day wear, and we still bow to Thom Browne’s imagination, but we’d also enjoy seeing somewhat less fanciful head wear as well.

THE RETURN OF THE HIGH-WAISTED PANT: Fred Mertz alert! Lanvin models looked slightly miserable and ridiculous in navel-grazing trousers. Fashion is cyclical, so it was inevitable that waistlines would rise, but Lanvin’s designers Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver raised the bar - and belt - too high.

THE BIG REVEAL: Most men are not built like willowy runway models or ready to show off abs or other anatomy. In women’s fashion, skirt length can be adapted to the mass market, but it seems unlikely that Bernhard Willhelm’s cutaway cape can be adapted for even the most adventurous dandies.