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Boston’s North End vs. Providence’s Federal Hill

Explore New England

January 22, 2012|By Patricia Harris and David Lyon
  • Refrigerated food display cases circled the large interior of Costantino's Venda Ravioli in Providence.
Refrigerated food display cases circled the large interior of Costantino's… (David Lyon for the Boston Globe)

Boston’s North End and Providence’s Federal Hill have been the Little Italies of their respective cities for well over a century, yet the two neighborhoods could not look more different. The North End was already a 250-year-old warren of twisting, narrow streets when Italians began arriving in the 1880s. Federal Hill, by contrast, began as a circa-1800 planned grid of broad streets opposite the old Colonial city. Despite population shifts and creeping gentrification, the aromas of garlic, olive oil, and tomatoes still drift from many doorways, and each neighborhood retains its own twist on Italian character. Here’s how they stack up on some essentials.

PARKING

North End: A quarter buys you 12 minutes - if you can find an open meter. Most street parking is reserved for residents, and the lots and garages can get pricey.

Federal Hill: On-street parking, even on the main drag of Atwells Avenue, is free for two hours at a stretch. Then you have to move the car to another spot.

Advantage: Providence. Save those quarters for an espresso.

PIZZA

North End: Pizza comes and pizza goes, but Regina Pizzeria (11 1/2 Thacher St., 617-227-0765, www.reginapizzeria.com) is forever. Well, since 1926. Brick-oven American-style pizza is rarely this good and the tiny spot oozes neighborhood charm. Sit at the bar where you can watch the pizzaiolas at work.

Federal Hill: Providence is famous for grilled pizza a la Al Forno (other side of town), but purists revere Neapolitan-style thin crust pizza. Stylish Zooma Trattoria (245 Atwells Ave., 401-383-2002, www.trattoriazooma.com) uses imported “00’’ flour to make Naples-style pies with a crust that is soft, chewy, and sauce-proof.

Advantage: Providence, by a hair. Neapolitan pizza is hard to find.

DESSERT EXCESS

North End: It sometimes seems that half the people on Hanover Street are toting a blue-and-white box from Mike’s Pastry (300 Hanover St., 617-742-3050, www.mikespastry.com) and chances are the boxes are filled with cannoli. Mike’s offers more than a dozen cannoli fillings, including almond, hazelnut, limoncello, chocolate ricotta, pistachio, espresso, peanut butter, and strawberry.

Federal Hill: Nancy’s Fancies (294 Atwells Ave. 401-421-2253, www.nancysfanciescakes.com) offers cannoli, of course, but the shop excels at gourmet cupcakes. Sample flavor combos (Oreo cheesecake, lemon meringue, coconut dream, among others) are displayed, but you can also select your favorite flavor of cake, filling, frosting, and topping, and watch while a custom cupcake is created before your eyes.

Advantage: Providence. Mike’s has the lines, but Nancy’s has the showmanship.

QUICK LUNCH

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