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10 food trends for 2012

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January 11, 2012|By Devra First

(KAYANA SZYMCZAK FOR THE…)

1. RENE REDZEPI’S INFLUENCE Spain’s Ferran Adria has been the culinary guiding light in recent years, but now the focus shifts toward Copenhagen, where Rene Redzepi’s Noma has been called the best restaurant in the world. Redzepi is greatly admired for his use of traditional methods and highly local, often foraged, ingredients to create a new version of Nordic cuisine. Chefs will be influenced by his natural approach, and they will look to do similar things for the food of their own regions.

2. MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY AT BARS I agree with Todd Maul of Clio. As chefs begin to put down the bells and whistles, bartenders will pick them up. Molecular gastronomy will creep into both cocktails and bar snacks. A prime example: At 41 Degrees in Barcelona, Albert Adria serves a prix fixe of 41 El Bulli-esque cocktail snacks, such as tuna nigiri with marshmallow instead of rice and Parmesan ice cream sandwiches, as well as drinks like a smoked gin and tonic.

3. THE RISE OF RAMEN Boston still lacks its version of New York’s Ippudo. Could Guchi’s Midnight Ramen, an upcoming pop-up from o ya chefs, be it? The photos they’re posting online look very tantalizing. Casual or upscale, a high-quality ramen joint would do very well in these parts, starved for good noodles since Ken Kojima of Ken’s Noodle House closed up shop to return to Japan.

4. VEGETABLES IN STARRING ROLES For years, people have been saying things like “vegetables are the new meat,’’ and I just laughed. But this may be the year we begin to see the tide truly turn. Yotam Ottolenghi’s recent cookbook “Plenty,’’ featuring “vibrant vegetable recipes,’’ is a runaway hit. There is an increasing awareness of obesity and the challenges of weight loss. And local chefs such as Jody Adams (pomegranate-glazed eggplant), Louis DiBiccari (green bean casserole), Michael Schlow (Brussels sprouts with bacon, kumquats, mint, and jalapeños), and Jamie Bissonnette (Brussels sprouts with horseradish and pecorino) are already winning us over.

5. DELI DELIGHTS Chefs are obsessed with charcuterie and butchering. A modern take on traditional Jewish deli is an inevitability that, mysteriously, has not yet come to pass in Boston. Still, hints are cropping up here and there - mostly in the form of pastrami, gaining traction at new places like JM Curley, Pinky’s Deli (which takes over Local 149 at lunch), and Michael Schlow’s upcoming Happy’s Bar & Kitchen. Someone, someday, will build us a place like Brooklyn’s Mile End. And we will come.