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Newburyport offers historic seaside charm

A Tank Away

THIS STORY APPEARED IN

December 21, 2011|By Christopher Klein

Newburyports waterfront was once the lifeblood of the city. (Christopher Klein for The…)

At the time of the American Revolution, this seaport was Boston’s maritime rival. But while Boston continued to morph into a metropolis, this city 35 miles to the north lagged. Good thing. A model of historic preservation, Newburyport retains the Yankee charm of an early American seaport. Brick and cobblestone sidewalks pass by stately Federalist mansions, bright-white churches with skyscraping steeples, and centuries-old commercial buildings now housing eclectic shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Newburyport is far from a museum piece, however, and with fine dining, outdoor adventures, and a lively nightlife beckoning, this seafaring city is perfect for couples seeking a cozy winter weekend escape close to home.

STAY

The smoky aroma of crackling fires, a seductive throwback to Colonial times, is blissfully inescapable in winter here, and rooms with wood-burning or gas fireplaces are common at downtown inns. All suites at the Essex Street Inn (7 Essex St., 978-465-3148, www.essexstreetinn.com, rates from $120), which features 37 rooms in three historic houses, have working fireplaces, and some include Jacuzzi tubs. A recently completed $1 million renovation has revitalized the landmark Garrison Inn (11 Brown Square, 978-499-8500, www.garrisoninn.com, rates from $170), infusing the 24 rooms with state-of-the-art amenities and sleek designs. All five of the three-room suites in the elegant Compass Rose Inn (5½ Center St., 978-423-5914, www.compassrosenewburyport.com, rates from $169) have dressing alcoves and sitting rooms with working fireplaces. Guests can watch boats ply the harbor and enjoy romantic sunsets from the inn’s cupola.

DINE