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A little bit sweet, a little bit salty

dining

A preview of new restaurants

THIS STORY APPEARED IN
Boston Articles
November 25, 2011|By Devra First
  • A group enjoys The Big Rig, a tray of various meats. at barbecue restaurant Sweet Cheeks, which is located in the space             formerly occupied by Cambridge 1.
A group enjoys The Big Rig, a tray of various meats. at barbecue restaurant… (ARAM BOGHOSIAN FOR THE BOSTON…)

SWEET CHEEKS 1381 Boylston St., Boston

617-266-1300

www.sweetcheeksq.com

Chef Tiffani Faison, of “Top Chef’’ and Rocca fame, brings barbecue and Southern hospitality to the Fenway neighborhood. Sweet Cheeks opened two weeks ago in the space formerly occupied by Cambridge 1. Loud and open, with music blasting, the restaurant is outfitted with communal high-top tables made from recycled church doors and bowling lanes. Drinks are served in Mason jars, food on brown paper in metal trays. In the spring, the outdoor beer garden will come into play. Yes, there is a porch swing.

The menu features pulled pork, ribs, brisket, pork belly, turkey legs, and more, available a la carte, in sandwiches, or in combos with sides included. The meat is prepared in “Tootsie,’’ a 4,700-pound J&R smoker Faison nicknamed in honor of one of the country’s oldest female pitmasters, Tootsie Tomanetz of Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, Texas. Sides include macaroni and cheese, heirloom BBQ beans, broccoli-cheese casserole, fried okra, and coleslaw. To drink, you’ll find cocktails such as the Damn Yankee (bourbon, maple liqueur, and maple bitters) and the Dollywood (vodka, lemon cordial, lemon juice, and sparkling wine), as well as beers from PBR to Rogue Shakespeare stout.

For dessert, the giant Nutter Butter - two enormous peanut butter cookies sandwiched together with peanut butter - is already winning a cult following. It’s a little bit sweet, a little bit salty, just like Sweet Cheeks itself.

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