Convivial mood, ambitious food

Dining Out

In Back Bay, Forum thinks like a restaurant with big ideas

November 16, 2011|By Devra First, Globe Staff
  • Fish tacos, with chipotle aioli and salsa, are meant to be shared. Below (from left): Wellington, featuring filet mignon, foie gras, and wild mushrooms; steak frites with fried potatoes and Brussels sprouts; and pork belly with quince and black bean puree.
Fish tacos, with chipotle aioli and salsa, are meant to be shared. Below… (PHOTOS BY ESSDRAS M SUAREZ/GLOBE…)

FORUM **

755 Boylston St., Boston. 857-991-1831. www.forum boston.com. All major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.

Prices Appetizers $10-$18. Entrees $15-$23 (downstairs), $23-$36 (upstairs). Desserts $10-$13.

Hours Sun 10-1 a.m. (brunch until 3 p.m.), Mon-Sat 11-1 a.m.

Noise level Can be very loud downstairs.

May we suggest

Downstairs: fish tacos, beef crepinettes, steak frites. Upstairs: pork belly, ricotta gnocchi, “Wellington.””

During its decade-long run on Boylston Street, Vox Populi became better known as a pick-up bar than a restaurant. It closed at the end of last year, replaced in July by Forum, a new project from Boston Nightlife Ventures (Noche, the Tap, the Federal). As the name indicates, this is still a meeting place. But now the food is picking up, too.

Culinary director Jared Chianciola has spent time at Eastern Standard, Rialto, Om, and 28 Degrees. Chef de cuisine Rene Caceres comes from San Francisco’s Coi, among others, and sous chef Daniel Lotti has worked at New York’s Eleven Madison Park. Forum is a two-level space, and the team runs it like two different restaurants, with a casual menu on the ground floor and a more ambitious version on the second.

Downstairs, the space is dominated by a large bar that loops like a racetrack around side-by-side flat-screens, seemingly enough for one per customer. Several tables look out onto the street. When there’s a sizable post-work crowd, the ’80s music can be pounding. It doesn’t drown out the courtesy of the managers, who ask diners whether the volume needs to be adjusted.

To match the social mood, this menu offers several social dishes. Fish tacos are made for sharing, three flour tortillas folded around cod and red cabbage slaw, chipotle aioli and salsa lending heat. A dish misleadingly named “chicken waffles’’ omits the “and’’ on purpose. These are essentially chicken fingers in a rice flour waffle batter, served with jalapeño maple syrup. Disappointingly, the chilies fail to make their presence known.

In addition to finger food, the menu offers sandwiches and bistro fare. (The lineup is changing soon.) Lobster chowder is short on both lobster and chowder. It’s so thick it might be better termed stew, a bowl of clams, mussels, and a bite or two of lobster, all bound together with a few tablespoons of thick, fennel-scented broth. The dish is topped with a fried oyster, a nice touch.

For an appetizer of beef crepinettes, short rib braised for 72 hours is shredded and formed into a patty, cooked in caul fat for extra richness. It’s wonderfully tender, served with hen of the woods mushrooms, fried parsnips, and Madeira reduction.

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