The dining room is cozy, with a dozen or so booths and tables covered in blue-and-white-checked vinyl tablecloths. Walls are sea blue, and nautical accents such as shells, ceramic fish, and seaside prints complete the spare but pleasing decor. The single, open room could have been loud, but acoustical ceiling tiles make it possible to converse without shouting.
We shared an appetizer of onion rings ($7 for medium). They were light and greaseless, not the best we’ve ever had, but definitely above average. We also shared haddock bites ($5), small nuggets of haddock deep fried and served with tartar sauce.
Clam chowder ($4.25) was just the way we like it - not too thick and brimming with clams.
We found most of the entrees a cut above average, and very reasonably priced considering the generous portions. Fried whole clams ($19) were plentiful and sweet. The shrimp was the best part of a combination plate of fried haddock and fried shrimp ($16); the haddock was bland. In both of these dishes, we would have liked a crispier coating.
Sides of cole slaw were tasty, with a good balance of creaminess, tang, and crunch.
A selection of broiled seafood will appeal to those seeking lighter fare. You can choose between two preparations of broiled fish: seasoned with lemon butter and topped lightly with crumbs, or “bronzed,’’ brushed with olive oil and seasoned with a house spice mix.
We chose broiled haddock bronzed, which was a nice piece of fish accompanied by tender-crisp broccoli and a foil-wrapped baked potato.
Charlie’s specialty seafood stew ($18), consisting of haddock, scallops, shrimp, and vegetables in a tomato-based broth ladled around a mound of jasmine rice, was a disappointment. The rice was soggy, and the only discernible taste in the dish was that of thyme, used in such abundance that it overpowered everything else. The stew was topped with a nearly tasteless piece of focaccia.
Service was prompt and courteous, and our waitress was a good sport about bringing extra flatware so we could share our meals.
For dessert, we resisted the temptation of a fried Snickers bar, pretty sure we had already exceeded our fried food limit for the day (OK, for the week). But we made short work of a turtle lava cake ($6.50), a dense, chocolate mini-Bundt cake with a warm, liquid center served with turtle ice cream, caramel sauce, and whipped cream. The gargantuan portion was perfect for sharing.
Except for a few weeks in January, Charlie’s Too is open year-round, which means you can enjoy a summer clam shack experience even in the dead of winter.
