Their business is mushrooming

October 23, 2011|By Joel Brown, Globe Correspondent

NEWBURYPORT - An unmarked door in a nondescript industrial park building leads to a scene of surpassing strangeness.

A plastic greenhouse has been assembled to fill much of the rented space, and inside this climate-controlled structure hang rows of pale, 4-foot-plus columns sprouting fungi.

Alien pods prepping a new “Invasion of the Body Snatchers?’’ No. They are bags of organic wheat straw popping out gourmet oyster mushrooms to feed foodies from here to Boston and beyond.

“Within about three days of me coming home with a degree in business management, Dev was growing his first mushrooms, so we decided to take them around to a few restaurants in town and see what people had to say. We got incredibly strong responses,’’ said Nate Seyler. A business plan was hatched.

“Dev’’ is Devin Stehlin. With Leif Johnson, Seyler and Stehlin are the owners of Shady Oaks Organics (www.shadyoaksorganics.com), which has started operations in new digs here after a pilot run in Middleton last year. The three friends hope to make a success selling mushrooms to chefs and shoppers hungry for organic, locally grown food.

The business requires finicky standards of cleanliness and knowledge of mushroom behavior and restaurant demand. Building that 35-foot-long greenhouse wasn’t easy either.

“It’s like an Erector set,’’ said Stehlin.

‘It’s 4,000 parts and 80 pages of instructions,’’ Seyler said, shaking his head.

Seyler, 23, and Stehlin, 24, both of Newburyport, have been friends since fifth grade. Johnson, 23, grew up in a military family, meaning he moved around a lot. He and Seyler became friends at James Madison University in Virginia, while Stehlin was at University of Massachusetts Dartmouth. Johnson began spending holidays with Seyler’s family in Newburyport when his parents were overseas. Now he lives here too, and all three are working other jobs while trying to get Shady Oaks up and running.

Mushrooms entered the picture while Stehlin worked in the dining room at local restaurant Ten Center Street when he wasn’t at college. Getting interested in the food world, he began foraging for mushrooms in woods around Newburyport, a pursuit that turned out to be both delicious and modestly lucrative. (Caution: The Shady Oaks team warns against eating wild mushrooms. When it comes to foraging, they say, a little knowledge can be dangerous.)

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