On a weekend trip, I can’t tour all 21 wineries and tasting rooms promoted in the council’s Wine Passport Program. (Visit at least 10 to become eligible for prizes.) So I plan to stay in Burlington on Lake Champlain and visit four in the vicinity.
These northern, cool-climate vineyards all plant hybrid grapes, a combination of European varieties for wine quality and native vines for hardiness. In the past 10 years, vintners have added Minnesota hybrids (including Frontenac, La Crescent, Sabrevois, and Marquette), varieties that survive in temperatures of 30 degrees below zero. In addition, they have looked to Canada for inspiration and are producing quality ice wines - dessert wines made from grapes frozen while still on the vine.
First stop, Boyden Valley Winery. Flagstone steps lead to the red carriage barn, circa 1875, that serves as welcome center, tasting room, and sales office at this 1,000-acre farm.
I’m greeted by Bridget Jones, the wine room manager, who is about to lead a tour of the tank and barrel room and bottling facilities.
“We grow about 70 percent of the grapes we use on the property,’’ said Jones. “The rest we import from other growers in Vermont or nearby.’’
Four generations of Boydens have worked this land, most recently as a dairy farm, but in 1997 owner David Boyden and his wife started the winery. (His brother is growing organic corn and soybeans on another part of the property with the goal of raising organic beef.) From 8,000 grapevines, they produced about 6,500 cases of wine last year.
Standing between stainless steel tanks and French oak casks, we watch a short film to learn the basics of grape growing, harvesting, and wine production. Near the bottling apparatus, David Boyden stirs giant vats of fruit fermenting in open steel containers.
