Demand for locally grown produce spurs rise of urban farms

From New York to Seattle, cities are attempting to create jobs, foster economic development, feed impoverished neighborhoods, and fill long-vacant lots by returning to their agrarian roots.

Kraft, 34, and a team of apprentices nurture tomato forests, white eggplants, rainbow chard, and other genetically pure vegetables for 11 homeowners who live minutes from downtown. Kraft sells the crop at farmers’ markets and to 30 families, who fork over $450 for a 20-week supply.

The demand for locally grown produce hit a high point this year, fed by urbanites looking to save money as well as documentaries such as “Food Inc.’’ and books including Michael Pollan’s “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,’’ which explore industrial food production.

More farmers are marketing their products directly to consumers than ever, the Department of Agriculture said Aug. 5 when it released its 2011 National Farmers Market Directory. The guide lists 7,175 markets, up 53 percent from 4,685 in 2008.

States experiencing the most rapid growth are not in the West or Northeast, where the local-food movement germinated, the USDA found. The agency reported a 46 percent increase in markets in Alaska, and a 38 percent jump in Texas, Colorado and New Mexico.

“There’s a major trend that has serious legs,’’ said Matt Liotta, chief executive of PodPonics, which will start growing watercress, arugula and other lettuce varieties hydroponically (in water, without soil) in recycled shipping containers on eight acres outside Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport in the next two months.

“Organic sales are up, fresh produce sales are up and per- capita consumption of lettuce is up,’’ he said.

PodPonics signed an 11-year lease at the Southside Industrial Park with a unit of the Atlanta Development Authority, Liotta said. The lease is below market rate, he added, because of the city’s interest in the jobs that PodPonics will create. The company said it expects to hire as many as 30 workers.