How can I avoid skin care products that make me break out?

Health Answers

July 25, 2011|By Courtney Humphries

Q. How can I avoid skin care products that make me break out?

A. Acne is caused by a complex chain of events, the first of which is an overproduction and accumulation of skin cells inside a pore or hair follicle of the skin. “Acne starts with clogged pores,’’ says Deborah Scott, director of the Laser and Skin Health Center at Brigham and Women’s Hospital, but it’s not entirely known why certain people are more susceptible to plugged-up pores while others keep their pores clear. Genetic factors, including hormones and excess production of sebum - an oily substance secreted by glands in the skin - seem to be the major culprits.

Although not usually the sole cause of acne, cosmetic products can contribute to clogged pores in susceptible people. These products are labeled as “comedogenic’’ for their tendency to cause comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). They include many heavy natural moisturizers like cocoa butter, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, and cottonseed oil, as well as certain synthetic fats and oils like isopropyl myristate and isocetyl stereate. The term only refers to a propensity to clog pores, but “just because something is comedogenic doesn’t mean it will cause acne in everyone,’’ Scott says. “A lot of it is individual response.’’

If you use a comedogenic product but your skin is clear, there’s no reason to switch. But if you’re a person with skin that tends to break out, look for a product labeled noncomedogenic, which lacks these pore-clogging ingredients. Scott also recommends choosing products designed for acne-prone skin, many of which contain mild acids that act as exfoliators, which help to keep pores clear. In general, choose formulas that are lighter in texture; when buying sunscreens opt for gels and sprays rather than heavy cream products.

Scott also points out that acne is not caused by dirty skin and can, in fact, be exacerbated by cleansers and scrubs that are overly harsh.

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