A perfect day on the perfect beach

On the Water

Good Harbor seashore is a perennial favorite

July 23, 2011|By Vivian Yee, Globe Correspondent
  • The scene at Good Harbor Beach in Gloucester on Thursday, with a strong ocean wind battering a beach umbrella. The beach has drawn generations of New Englanders.
The scene at Good Harbor Beach in Gloucester on Thursday, with a strong ocean… (WENDY MAEDA/GLOBE STAFF )

GLOUCESTER - They call him Walker. But on Thursday, the unofficial captain of Good Harbor Beach was sitting alone in a low plastic folding chair near the east end of this half-mile stretch of sand, tanning in a pair of blue shorts.

Carl Connelly, 70, has had his share of bad luck and good. The bad includes a faltering hip that, for the first summer in 25 years, is preventing him from making his customary 8-to-10-mile crisscross of the Cape Ann beach, daily treks that earned him his nickname.

The good includes learning to “crawl here, walk here, swim here’’ at Good Harbor, returning summer after summer to sit near a community of Gloucester natives whose families have come to this beach north of Boston for as long as anyone can remember.

They are joined by people from all over the region who are drawn to the wide vistas and cold Atlantic water of this quintessential New England beach, sunny day after sunny day.

“It’s a special place,’’ said Connelly, a retired sea captain who looks the part with a trim white beard and deep, leathery tan. “I’ve traveled around the world, but I prefer here.’’

He knows what he’s talking about. Unlike the legions of towel- and folding chair-toting beachgoers who retreated, 5 or 10 feet at a time, before the encroaching tide all afternoon, Connelly has learned where to plant his beach chair so that the waves only nibble at his toes.

He knows exactly what happens at low tide, too: The beach is so exposed that children can walk to a small island about 50 yards out and dive for lobsters, just as he did as a child.

Connelly is a prominent member of Good Harbor Beach society. He knows all the regulars on the east end, and they know him. If they squint at one another, they can see the faces of their great-grandparents, grandparents, and parents, who all came here, too.

They mourn the 2009 death of William McKay, known to them as Uncle Bud, who died at 84 after years of serving as the beach’s unofficial caretaker. His ashes were scattered in the tide.

McKay gauged the water depth several times a day and posted each day’s tide schedule on a blackboard near the snack shop, where his portrait hangs today.

The regulars say the east side is breezier than the rest of the beach, a blessing this week, when temperatures soared. Not that the west end doesn’t have its partisans.

“It’s quick, it’s easy, and kids love the river,’’ said Regina Pacor, 44, of Melrose, referring to the creek that spills from the ocean into a pool near the road. As she spoke, two boys raced each other to the pool, riding the current on boogie boards.

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