A gem of an exhibit

Q. Why?

A. Jewelry is mostly associated with women, a prejudice that wasn’t true of ancient cultures. Also, jewelry associated with big houses like Tiffany and Cartier has never been actively sought by fine arts museums. Until recently, even MFA trustees rightfully questioned why we’d purchase, say, a platinum and emerald brooch worn by heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post. With this brooch comes a whole history, though: How it was purchased, who from, etc. Because we’re an arts museum, provenance is extremely important.

Q. What exactly is studio jewelry?

A. People who make studio jewelry see themselves as artists first. Many have also had careers in other artistic fields, Alexander Calder being a good example. Their pieces are usually made in small studios and sold in galleries. Some are even made of paper or plastic. In general, studio artists de-emphasize materials and stay away from diamonds and platinum.

Q. Tell us a story or two behind some of the exhibit pieces.

A. We have a diamond necklace given by Sam Colt to his wife in 1856. Colt was a good friend of Charles Tiffany and one of the 10 wealthiest Americans in his day. It’s among the oldest surviving American-made diamond necklaces. There’s also a gold, diamond, and enamel brooch, with matching earrings, owned by Mary Todd Lincoln. Mrs. Lincoln was a shopaholic who got lots of bad press, especially in 1867, when she was left incredibly in debt and was forced to sell off jewelry, clothing, and furniture. Unfortunately, the sale did very poorly and did not help her much.

Q. Will jewelry get more respect with an institution like the MFA creating a gallery and curatorship dedicated to it?

A. It will get a lot more exposure, certainly. It’s a matter of education.

Q. Jewelry has long been an expression of wealth and status. What’s different today?

A. For one thing, starting with 1960s, men are wearing more jewelry. They’re especially passionate about their watches, which now do everything but think for you.

Q. Do you get to borrow any pieces from the MFA collection to wear?