Salt air, smoothies, the slow take on Montauk

Past the glitz and glamour of the tony Hamptons, Montauk is a sleepy village determined to retain its charm. For me, it evokes childhood memories of fishing off pristine Long Island beaches, coveting saltwater taffy from the candy shop at Gosman’s Dock, watching the yachts make their way in and out of the marina, and learning how to eat a lobster. For many others, it’s a quintessential surf town, a dusty throwback to the simplicity of summers past.

Ditch Plains Beach is always my first stop. I sit on the damp sand and simply … well, watch. Energized surfers carrying oversize boards jump out of mud-spattered pickups with license plates like “Surfari.’’ A few shimmies and they have found their way into slick, dark wet suits. One by one, they paddle out into the icy Atlantic for a shot at the day’s first break. The ocean rollicks and rolls in the morning light and each lithe body is thrown, sometimes mercilessly, out to sea. I subconsciously draw circles in the sand with my toes and fingers, but never, ever, do I take my eyes off the water. It’s transfixing, and just like it does the surfers, it draws me in.

At Gosman’s Dock, morning brings a different energy. Here, night fishermen unload their catch, while others set off to work. Nearby markets open, selling not only fresh seafood but also a rainbow of fruits and vegetables, pies and taffy, all locally produced. There is an underlying camaraderie in Montauk; everyone smiles and says hello.

As the day warms, my stomach calls me to action. There’s only one place to brunch. Joni’s is authentic Montauk, and it’s always packed. At this comfy, organic food joint two blocks off the beach, the hungry gather around the wooden community table reading newspapers. The killer breakfast wraps filled with eggs and veggies are my salvation, while smoothies, lattes, muffins, salads, stir-fries, and sandwiches round out the scrawled chalkboard menu. Vintage black and white surfing photos line the blue walls, a collage of local canines hangs next to the register, and surf maps of Hawaii and California add to the hippie feel.