Kings of the grill

The glorious hamburger has spun many copies. Even made of falafel or tuna, tasty burgers rule.

July 10, 2011|By Patricia Harris and David Lyon, Globe Correspondents

We take it for granted, but the hamburger may be America’s supreme culinary achievement. It’s certainly the first thing that friends visiting from Europe want to eat. That’s not to say that Europeans can’t be snobbish about our handheld edible icon. We’re still smarting from a 1985 exhibition on cultural identity at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The curators chose the hamburger to epitomize the United States. “Mass-produced, cheap, efficient, but essentially juvenile,’’ they noted. We prefer the term “casual.’’ Moreover, the hamburger has grown up a lot in the last 26 years, becoming the US equivalent of a steak-frites on some of the classiest menus. The format of grilled patty on a bun has proven so versatile that chefs push the envelope with such variants as tuna and even falafel. We won’t pick a food fight by claiming these 10 spots are the best in New England, but each one makes a burger well worth the trip.

STANLEY’S FAMOUS HAMBURGERS, Central Falls, R.I. Polish immigrant Stanley F. Kryla opened his hamburger joint in 1932. The Stanleyburger, as he called it, remains a modest patty of freshly ground beef served on a soft bun with grilled onions and tangy sweet pickles. It can be gussied up with tomato, mushroom, bacon, cheese, or pepper, but the original remains a standard. Grab a seat at the counter and watch the grill cook at work. 535 Dexter St., 401-726-9689, www.stanleyshamburgers.com, $1.99-$5.49

SEAFOOD CENTER OF MAINE, in Arundel This modest Route 1 fry shack is locally famous for its clam cakes made from a “top-secret recipe.’’ We would guess that the recipe includes a lot of chopped sea clams, some cracker meal, and something to make them stick together. The patty is lightly breaded and deep-fried. The restaurant’s clam cake burger consists simply of slipping said clam cake onto a toasted soft bun and serving it with good cole slaw. Order at the counter that looks into the open kitchen and have a seat at one of the tables. The clam pieces can be a little tough, but this is a rare fish burger you can really bite into. 1181 Portland Road, 207-985-7391, www.seafoodcenterofmaine.com, $2.70

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