A star in the Texas Hill Country firmament

It had been more than 13 years since I first visited the resort, on the shores of an artificial lake about 40 minutes from downtown Austin. Back then it had been a deeply charming place. The rooms were a bit rustic, the spa facility small. But the tranquil views, lush grounds, healthy a la carte cuisine, and casually relaxed atmosphere had suited me perfectly.

Since Mike McAdams and Billy Rucks, college buddies from Louisiana State University, took over the resort in January 1997 — just before my initial stay — the spa has undergone seemingly continual upgrading, including room renovations, two new pools, a lavish spa, a new gym, and the addition of a demonstration kitchen and garden library. The transformation has culminated in Lake Austin’s designation by Condé Nast Traveler readers as the top destination spa in the United States for the last two years. Unfortunately, its once-modest prices have skyrocketed along with its reputation.

My first visit to Lake Austin was in April, wildflower season, an enchanting time in the Texas Hill Country. But fall is also a good choice, with crisp, cool mornings and evenings and bright, sunny afternoons. Driving from downtown Austin, I was surprised by the development and traffic lining the road. Lake Austin no longer existed in splendid isolation.

But my welcome, once I passed through the gated entrance, was warm: I was immediately offered lunch. Not expecting that, I had brought my own so I settled outside, between the lake and the pool, to eat. After gulping down my sandwich, I ran inside for a culinary class with executive chef Terry Conlan. Conlan had been at the resort when I first visited, as had nutritionist Terry Shaw and some other staff members. Once at Lake Austin, no one seemed to want to leave. (Conlan retired this past March; his replacement, Stephane Beaucamp, has worked in Paris and Los Angeles restaurants.)