Creativity in Downtown Crossing

Ivy Restaurant focused on accessibility, with shareable Italian plates and an affordable wine list. 49 Social is more ambitious. The restaurant opened at the end of May, a multilevel space with a marble bar, brick walls, wrought-iron railings, and chandeliers. Chef Michael Lishchynsky (Four Seasons, New York’s David Burke Townhouse) has created a menu of American fare with international twists. 49 Social eschews the “affordable neighborhood joint where nothing costs more than $20’’ model that ascended as the economy did the opposite. Main courses are $23-$34 — not impossibly dear, but reflecting a step up in creativity.

Diners might find a first course of Korean-style beef tartare paired with tea-smoked rib eye, smoke included. The rib eye is presented under a glass lifted tableside, so the scent wafts out. Tuna sashimi with soy pearls, radish salad, and garlic-chili vinaigrette and a Caprese salad with burrata and heirloom tomatoes are also on the menu. Main courses include crispy chicken breast with confit leg and thigh, collards, and truffle macaroni and cheese; salmon with chickpeas and blood orange emulsion; and pork roulade with wild boar sausage and bacon and pea risotto. 49 Social has a late-night bar menu and will offer lunch in coming weeks.

Kim Frankson (Radius) manages the beverage program. There is creativity here, too, in cocktails such as the Amor (gin, Lillet, rosewater, and lemon juice) and the Sugar & Spice (tequila, togarashi, agave, kumquat, and citrus juices). The wine list features almost 80 bottles, 28 of which are priced at $28. Drink a toast to Downtown Crossing, and the people who work to keep it vibrant.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.