A neighborhood comfort

The Tip

April 29, 2011|By Devra First, Globe Staff

Tom Powers and Noelle Gimitri, both Dorchester residents, look over a menu… (matthew j. lee/globe staff )

Savin Bar + Kitchen 112 Savin Hill Ave., Dorchester

617-288-7500

www.savinbarandkitchen.com

Savin Bar + Kitchen opened last month in Savin Hill, injecting the former Donovan’s space with a dose of chic. Perhaps it was an overdose. The food wasn’t quite in line with the neighborhood at first, says co-owner Kenneth Osherow, and the restaurant quickly adjusted. Now it has a new chef and an overhauled menu, which emphasizes comfort food at a variety of price points. The stylish surroundings, however, remain. The space has been opened up, decorated in salvaged Vermont oak, with exposed brick walls and a well-stocked bar.

In the kitchen is chef John Norton, who was most recently executive chef at the former 14 Union in Plymouth. He turns out appetizers such as fried goat cheese with red onion marmellata and honey, Cajun fried dill spears, BBQ wings, and Thai mussels prepared with sambal and lager. For entrees you’ll find a burger, fish and chips, and a Cuban sandwich, as well as cioppino, sirloin with blue cheese mashed potatoes and bacon jam, and salmon a la plancha. Brunch brings huevos rancheros enchiladas, stuffed French toast, and more. Monday through Friday, Savin Kitchen + Bar offers $1 local oysters from 3-6 p.m.

At the bar, Osherow says, the bartenders have already won a strong following. House-made sangria and margaritas keep company with drinks such as the Beekeeper’s Bourbon (bourbon with local honey, ginger liqueur, and a splash of ginger ale) and the Cucumber Smash (gin, cucumber puree, and a cucumber garnish).

Osherow is also behind Savin Hill establishments McKenna’s Cafe and Savin Scoop. Savin Bar + Kitchen stands poised to be the spot the neighborhood needed: comfortable and stylish at once.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.