TRES GATOS **½
470 Centre St., Jamaica Plain. 617-477-4851. www.tresgatosjp.com. All major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.
Prices Pinchos $4, xarcuterie and cheese $5, tapas $4-$13, desserts $4-$7.
Hours Sun-Tue noon-10 p.m., Wed-Sat noon-11 p.m.
Noise level Conversation easy.
May we suggest
Boquerones, xarcuterie and cheese platter, tortilla espanola, albondigas, confit chicken leg, empanadas.
The restaurant business is one of calculation. If a French bistro becomes the new hot spot, an army of clones with black-and-white tiles, marble bars, and seafood platters is sure to materialize. Local, seasonal cooking is all the rage? A million menus get on that wave and ride. Survival demands popularity. There is safety in the tested concept.
