Bread’s second life can be better than its first

February 16, 2011|Lisa Zwirn, Globe Correspondent

Generally, when a food is described as lost, it is no longer good enough to eat. Not bread. Stale bread has plenty of practical uses, which poor cooks around the world discovered centuries ago. Bread’s airy crumb, even when dry, easily soaks up eggs, milk, water, or stock. There’s a whole genre of dishes made with leftover bread that include meat loaves, soups, salads, and savory and sweet puddings.

How many other foods past their pull date can claim popular spinoffs such as French toast (known in France as pain perdu, or lost bread), English bread and butter pudding, Spanish gazpacho, the Italian soup ribollita and the salad panzanella, and Lebanese fattoush, a salad made with toasted pita? In its most minute form, there are bread crumbs, indispensible for coating chicken pieces, fish fillets, pork and veal cutlets, and more. Baked mac and cheese owes its delectable crusty topping to a layer of crumbs. And for as long as housewives have been worried about having enough food to feed their families, bits of bread have performed the noble job of stretching meat for homey loaves and meatballs.

For many, French toast is the most recognizable and simple use for day-old bread. Simply fry slices soaked in egg and milk until golden. Or soak the bread in layers in a baking dish and the golden puffy results are another favorite that goes by many names: strata (it means layers in Italian), bread pudding, Kansas City omelet. Add cranberries, raisins, apples or pears, bananas, chocolate, or pumpkin to the custard for a sweet element. Savory versions for brunch or supper might include sauteed vegetables, grated cheese, sausage, bacon, or ham. Let the pudding sit overnight in the refrigerator and the bread and custard meld so you cannot tell it is bread. If you prefer a dish that shows off more of the bread’s character, shorten the soaking time.

The French have another clever use for stale bread, particularly for butter-rich brioche. The loaves are time-consuming and expensive to make (it’s all that butter), says Christy Timon, co-owner of Clear Flour Bread in Brookline, “If you have some leftover, you’re going to figure out a way to use it.’’ One popular breakfast treat is bostock, an almond toast that Timon’s bakery makes every day. Clear Flour bakers brush thick slices of brioche with sugar syrup flavored with orange flower water (home cooks can skip this step) and top them with the almond cream frangipane and sliced almonds. The bread is baked until the coating is golden and crisp.

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