Island beats play from a boombox strapped to the ceiling. A cast of characters: dreadlocked, flip-flopped, pit bull-walking, line up out the screen door to order, and then hang out at the checker boards, drinking Bahamian beer and sweet tea while the food takes its time in the kitchen.
Sooner or later many of us will head south to visit parents and grandparents in the sunburned and air-conditioned free-for-all that is the Sunshine State. Obviously, it is best to do this in winter. South Florida does have nice weather. And if you can see past the high-rise condominiums, the beaches aren’t bad either.
But just try to find something good to eat. The southern third of the giant peninsula is not the best place for food snobs. Chain restaurants rule and the local food revolution is barely a pep rally. But if you look around long enough there are bright spots, tiny mom and pops like Sheila’s, as well as fine dining that could compare to anything in the north country.
On a two-week trip to Palm Beach and points south I ate out a lot. Here are the highlights:
B.O.’s Fish Wagon Key West feels like a theme park, and the theme is drinking Jimmy Buffett beer and acting like a college kid on spring break. Even from Miami it is a long and traffic-choked — though at times beautiful — drive over spindly ocean bridges . B.O.’s Fish Wagon is a block from the water. For more than 25 years owner Buddy Owen has served up fried fish, cracked conch, hand-cut fries, soft shell crab, and cold beer. B.O.’s is worth the trip even if Key West isn’t. The fried grouper sandwich with a side of fries is $12. 801 Caroline St., 305-294-9272, www.bosfishwagon.com
El Palacio de Los Jugos In Miami, El Palacio de Los Jugos is a 24-hour-a-day explosion of cheap and hearty Cuban food. They specialize in jugos: mango, melon, and guanabana (tastes like strawberry and pineapple mixed together) juice. The food is also worth eating, particularly the lechon asado (roast pig), arepas (corn cakes with cheese), tamales, and chicharrones (fried pork skin). Everything is surprisingly inexpensive. Sandwiches for less than $5. 14300 SW 8thSt.(and other locations), 305-226-3141
