The year in taste

From a solitary oyster to a one-of-a-kind burger, these dishes stood out

December 29, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff

In 2010, poutine and Scotch eggs colonized Boston menus. Hamburgers went high-end, and hot dogs went off the deep end, topped with kimchi or wrapped in bacon and deep-fried. Chefs Jasper White and Lydia Shire reunited to open Towne, and Barbara Lynch aimed haute with Menton. Good food was just as likely to be found at arrivals like the midpriced Bergamot, the Brookline outpost of Sichuan Gourmet, or on wheels — this was the year the city got behind food trucks. From upscale restaurants to simple sandwich spots, there were dishes that stood out — for the thought that went into composing them, for the perfect combinations of flavor and texture, for the single-syllable appreciation that first bite elicited. Wow. Yum. Unprintable. Here are some of the most memorable.

5 Corners Kitchen opened in May, chef-owner Barry Edelman’s first restaurant. He serves French-slanted food with bold flavors, including one of the year’s best versions of steak frites. But it was his house-made sausage that made me sit up straight. Smoky, garlicky, it had a crisp skin that burst open, flooding the mouth with richness. It was paired with lentils and a generous dollop of whole-grain mustard — simply the perfect thing to eat on a chilly winter night with a big glass of red wine. 2 School St., Marblehead. 781-631-5550.

Half sushi bar, half French restaurant, Aka Bistro offers innovative raw fish platters and traditional steak frites under the same roof. At the sashimi bar, chef Chris Chung pairs hamachi with ginger vinaigrette, rhubarb, and sea grape, or kinmedai with ponzu, goji berries, and shiso. One night a meal began with a single Kumamoto oyster, perched on ice in a black ceramic bowl. It looked beautiful. Topped with sea urchin and roe, touched with ponzu and candied yuzu kosho (a condiment made from the Japanese citrus yuzu, chilies, and salt), it tasted beautiful too. I wanted that bite to last all night. 145 Lincoln Road, Lincoln. 781-259-9920.www.akabistrolincoln.com.

Back Bay Social Club’s burger got plenty of attention, much of it for the sandwich’s price tag: $21. For a burger? Well, yes. Because this 10-ounce patty is made from a blend of dry-aged prime rib, short rib, flank, and skirt that is so full of steak-y flavor, so juicy after searing on the griddle, you won’t feel cheated. It does not hurt, either, that it’s topped with Vermont cheddar and caramelized onions cooked down for hours into a sweet, intense jam. 867 Boylston St., Boston. 617-247-3200.www.backbaysocialclub.com.

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