A family restaurant carries on

December 12, 2010

Just as the dying leaves, early nights, and cold of autumn in New England had me thinking that the best bet would to be moving to California — a bowl of perfect New England clam chowder came my way and set me cheering for the home team again.

I devoured the aforementioned chowder, thick with irregularly chopped potatoes, tender bites of quahog, cream, butter, and black pepper, at the Greenside Grille at South Shore Country Club in Hingham.

This 65-seat restaurant is run by the Ricci family, which has owned a succession of Raffael’s restaurants in Quincy, Hull, and Walpole since 1989. The father-and-son team of Elio and Frank Ricci took over as the food and beverage providers for this publicly owned country club a year ago and opened the Greenside Grille in March after renovating the space.

While they still have a Raffael’s Walpole banquet facility, the Greenside Grille is now the Riccis’ only restaurant; they closed Raffael’s in Hull last month.

And, while the Riccis are running the Grille with the same hands-on, family pride that gave us the once-dazzling Raffael’s atop Quincy’s State Street Bank, Elio and Frank have changed the name so former customers won’t expect the same menu they knew at Raffael’s.

Not quite knowing what to expect from the place (Was it a Raffael’s? Was it a country club?) we ventured up the long driveway to the restaurant one Friday night late last month.

The simple dark-green space — surrounded with windows and punctuated by striking amber hanging lamps — was half-full. The crowd was decidedly older and lively as we settled into a comfortable table overlooking a vast green expanse, while a piano player sang a jazzy rendition of “White Christmas.’’

Two spoonfuls into the clam chowder ($4 cup, $6 bowl) and I was quite hopeful that the food would be good. The soup of the day ($3 cup, $5 bowl), a brothy turkey vegetable, was tasty, too, and a nice option for soup lovers not wanting a rich bowl.

One bite of the angel hair pomodoro ($10 lunch, $15 dinner) that arrived next, and I was confident that someone cared in the kitchen. (That someone, it turns out, is chef Michael Saef, who has worked at various Raffael’s for years.)

The thin pasta was al dente and so steamy we had to blow on it. The simple red sauce was bright and hearty at once, with some chunks of fresh tomato and a telling residue of olive oil on the bottom of the plate. For me, it was as good as a pomodoro sauce gets. (I don’t like the Parmesan served at the Grille, however; it’s thick grated and hard, which obscures its flavor. It is telling, though, that I didn’t even miss it — the sauce was so good.)

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