Seasoned by war, Portugal

Battleship Cove to cuisine to concerts

November 24, 2010|Ellen Albanese, Globe Correspondent

The USS Massachusetts looms over this city like a great, hulking shadow. The centerpiece of Battleship Cove, the ship anchors a scenic and walkable area that celebrates Fall River’s waterfront, its maritime history, and its Portuguese heritage, with lots of opportunities for children to explore.

STAYThe Lizzie Borden Bed & Breakfast/Museum (230 Second St., 508-675-7333, www.lizzie-borden.com, $150-$250) operates in the house where the infamous murders of Andrew and Abby Borden took place on Aug. 4, 1892. Andrew Borden’s daughter, Lizzie, 32, was charged with the double homicide and eventually acquitted. The house has been meticulously restored to its Victorian style. Photos and news clippings relating to the murders hang prominently on the walls, and guests may take an extended tour of the house, which is also available to the general public. Rates include a hot breakfast — “similar to the one the Bordens would have eaten on the morning of the murders, minus the cold mutton soup,’’ our tour guide noted.

Comfort Inn and Suites (360 Airport Road, 508-672-0011, www.choicehotels.com, $89-$139) offers a complimentary hot breakfast, indoor heated pool, and fitness center. Rooms have one king or two queen beds, and there are also two suites.

DINE Portuguese restaurants dominate the downtown along Columbia and South Main streets. Owner Victor DaSilva claims that Sagres (177 Columbia St., 508-675-7018, www.osagres.wordpress.com, dinner $12-$21), started by his father 35 years ago, was the first. We enjoyed its award-winning kale soup thickened slightly with pureed potato, along with mariscada, shellfish in a slightly spicy tomato broth, roasted fresh cod, and a traditional house-made flan for dessert. The Clipper Restaurant (455 South Main St., 508-679-4700, dinner $10-$21) has been serving Portuguese specialties for 30 years, including chorizo, marinated pork, and shrimp or salmon in a spicy mocambique sauce. Trio Cafe and Lounge (201 South Main St., 508-679-5781, www.trio-cafe.com, sandwiches $6-$8, entrees $13-$25), a cozy dining room with a bistro feel, offers a nice selection of Portuguese and American entrees, as well as a $5 children’s menu. Burgers, dogs, and hand-cut fries are the draw at the Ugly American (240 New Boston Road, 508-672-4427, www.uglyamericanburger.com, $1.50-$5.69), a bare-bones cafe with children’s artwork on the walls and low prices. Burgers and fries were fine, but we loved the tempura asparagus, crisp stalks in a feather-light coating sprinkled with fresh Parmesan and served with ranch dressing.

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