10 pies worth every mile

Clam, tomato, bacon, peppers, Parmesan . . . in Connecticut, Vermont, Maine . . .

November 14, 2010

If you think Bostonians are the only people loyal to their beloved pizzerias, you’ve got to do some border-crossing. Start with New Haven, where residents vehemently defend their favorite locale, often generation after generation. Then move on to the other states, where pizza wars can be more contentious than finding the best lobster roll. We offer these 10 picks simply as a starting point.

FRANK PEPE Pizzeria Napoletana New Haven

The thin, slightly charred crust on Frank Pepe’s pizzas is so incredibly tasty that my children, Regina Pizzeria regulars, plead with me to get off the highway every time we pass New Haven. It was Pepe who started the “apizza’’ craze here when his Neapolitan dialect couldn’t get around the word “pizza.’’ In 1925, he installed his first coal-powered oven and the rest, as they say, is magic. If you think Lawrence “Chubby’’ Woodman transformed the clam-eating industry by dropping a clam into a frying vat, try one bite of Pepe’s white clam pizza. The tender morsels are dripping with clam juice, with the perfect mix of salty sea, grated Parmesan cheese, olive oil, and oregano. Or choose my kids’ favorite, the original tomato pie topped with mozzarella, garlic, and basil. That’s apizza! 157 Wooster St., www.pepespizzeria.com

SALLY’S Apizza, New Haven

The nerve of Salvatore Consiglio, nephew of Frank Pepe, leaving the family business to start his own apizzeria in 1938. And in the same Wooster Square neighborhood, no less. When he died in 1989, more than 2,500 people came to his wake and funeral, including Connecticut senators and many devoted Yale University graduates. Doonesbury creator Garry Trudeau sketched Sally’s restaurant in his early strips when he was a student at Yale, probably as a way of killing time while waiting in line. Lines are practically a guarantee, but don’t let your impatient friends sway you into going elsewhere. For a thin crust tomato pie, also cooked in a coal-powered oven, this is about as close to perfection as it gets, especially in summer when the tomatoes are fresh and the juices commingle happily with the oily crust. I don’t live in New Haven so thankfully I don’t have to take sides between Pepe’s and Sally’s. I love them both. Open only for dinner, 237 Wooster St., www.sallysapizza.com

MODERN Apizza, New Haven

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