Small bridge to the past

Village adapting its history for a modern future

November 10, 2010|Paul E. Kandarian, Globe Correspondent

Walk through this tiny village, part of the town of Rockingham, and you will sense time standing still yet marching on. It is a glorious gathering of 19th-century buildings reinvented into showcases of arts, antiques, music, and historic preservation. A 19th-century railroad hub, the village was built around the Connecticut River: The first bridge to span the river along its 410 miles was built between Walpole, N.H., and Bellows Falls in 1785 and the first canal company chartered in the United States was here in 1791. Predating all of that are ancient rock-carved petroglyphs.

STAY River Mist

(7 Burt St., 802-376-9954, www.river-mist.com, rates from $100), a gorgeously restored 1895 Victorian, is darkly elegant, loaded with antiques, and a quick walk from downtown. I had the expansive suite with sizable living room and huge bath with step-up tub. Included is a massive breakfast; get the fruit compote and cinnamon-and-syrup-soaked French toast, and skip lunch. Added value: One of the innkeepers, Roger Riccio, heads the local Chamber of Commerce and can direct you anywhere in town. Like to read? Check out Readmore Bed, Breakfast and Books (1 Hapgood St., 802-463-9415, www.readmoreinn.com, rates from $150), where every room has books for sale according to theme, and where you warm up with hot tea in the afternoon. The house is on the National Register of Historic Places and was named one of the 10 prettiest homes in America by Ladies Home Journal — in 1899. It also was once featured on Bob Vila’s “Restore America.’’

EAT

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