Where to eat burgers, for $21 and less

October 13, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff

BACK BAY SOCIAL CLUB867 Boylston St., Boston. 617-247-3200. www.backbaysocialclub.com. $21. A 10-ounce patty made from dry-aged prime rib, short rib, flank, and skirt, topped with “smothered’’ onions and cheddar. A price tag of $21 for a burger? Yeah, it’s crazy. But as chef Timothy Raines says, “It eats like a steak.’’ Maybe you could just think of it as one.

BRISTOL LOUNGEFour Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston St., Boston. 617-338-4400. www.fourseasons.com. $21. A char-grilled patty topped with Vermont cheddar and house-made pickles, with truffle fries. A good burger, but not quite as beefy or balanced as some of the other high-ticket versions. If you’re someone who thinks burgers shouldn’t cost a lot, this could be a hard price tag to swallow.

CRAIGIE ON MAIN853 Main St., Cambridge. 617-497-5511. www.craigieonmain.com. $18. This 8-ounce patty is made from grass-fed short rib, brisket, and flap steak, with suet and bone marrow added to compensate for the leanness of the beef. Dehydrated miso lends a concentrated burst of umami. It goes on a house-made bun along with house-made ketchup, cheddar, crispy onions, and watercress. It’s so good it’s won a devoted following of people who don’t even bother to gripe about the cost anymore.

RADIUS8 High St., Boston. 617-426-1234. www.radiusrestaurant.com. $19. Some high-end burgers win over meat lovers with the sheer beefiness of their patties. Here, the focus is less on the meat and more on the whole package. A 9-ounce patty made from corn and grain-fed Wisconsin rib eye and chuck, it satisfies without dominating. It’s topped with horseradish sauce, cheddar, and crispy onions, and it comes on a house-made brioche bun. This burger is all about synthesis. There’s no diva in this choir. The whole thing sings in unison, and the harmonies are sweet.

TASTY BURGER1301 Boylston St., Boston. 617-425-4444. www.tastyburger.com. $4. This Fenway burger joint takes inspiration from such places as Shake Shack in New York, Five Guys, and In-N-Out Burger. Oh, and local legend Tim’s Tavern. Tim’s gone-but-not-forgotten burger is the model for Tasty Burger’s 5-ouncer. It’s not gourmet, and it doesn’t try to be. It’s a handmade version of a fast food burger, and it’s priced accordingly — more than McDonald’s, a lot less than a steak.

TORO1704 Washington St., Boston. 617-536-4300. www.toro-restaurant.com. $8. This might just be the best of both worlds. The short rib patty offers 5 ounces of big beef flavor without the big price tag. It comes with pickled red onions and American cheese — unless you ask for it “messy.’’ Then it comes topped with the gooey, crumbly mixture of cotija cheese, alioli, espelette pepper, and lime on which Toro slathers its famous grilled corn.

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