A bridge not too far to admire

Camping, rafting, and rarest of gardens

September 29, 2010|David Abel, Globe Staff

Just off Route 2 about 2 1/2 hours northwest of Boston, straddling the Deerfield River, is a small town with a big lure. There are fine restaurants and a funky art scene. Nearby, there’s good camping and better white-water rafting. There are even peculiar geological formations. But the real draw is a bridge like no other. The century-old span was originally built to convey trolley cars across the Deerfield, but in 1929, it was converted into a 400-foot-long garden that eventually became known as the Bridge of Flowers, a meticulously maintained patch of floral glory that blooms from spring to fall and must rank among the state’s most alluring destinations.

STAY

There are bed-and-breakfasts throughout the area, most just a short drive from downtown Shelburne Falls. In nearby Charlemont, on a hill overlooking the Mohawk Trail, there are two well-maintained guest houses at the Warfield House Inn, which offer sweeping views, a large restaurant, and a petting zoo (200 Warfield Road, 888-339-8439, www.warfieldhouseinn.com, $90-$150). In the Mohawk Trail State Forest, there are 56 wooded campsites and six log cabins along the Cold River (175 Mohawk Trail/Route 2, 413-339-5504, www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/western/mhwk.htm, $12 for camping to $50 for cabins, which are open year-round).

DINE

There is a healthy range of choices despite Shelburne Falls’ size. There’s comfort food, candy shops, and fine dining. The best view of the Bridge of Flowers is from the West End Pub (16 State St., 413-625-6216, entrees $10-$15). The food is nothing spectacular, but the offerings of beer, burgers, and other bar food washes down well with the scenery, especially from the deck. Across the street is Mo’s Fudge Factor (9 State St., 413-625-6645, www.mosfudgefactor.com, $6.50 per half pound of fudge), which offers 10 varieties of homemade fudge, a 16-foot candy wall with more than 60 candy jars, and lots of ice cream, shakes, root beer floats, and sundaes featuring homemade hot fudge and caramel sauce. For a higher-end but relatively inexpensive meal, try Cafe Martin (24 Bridge St., 413-625-2795, web.me.com/swik/Cafe_Martin/About_Us.html, entrees $15-$25), a cozy, bright space with a few outdoor tables and an eclectic menu that includes hearty quesadillas and Gorgonzola garlic focaccia, carefully prepared salads, and a good veggie burrito among other vegetarian options. The most esteemed restaurant in town is the 12-table Gypsy Apple Bistro (65 Bridge St., 413-625-6345, entrees start at $22), where the menu changes every few weeks. Often it includes heavier fare such as filet mignon, rack of lamb, mussels, finishing with pear cobbler or a chocolate pot.

DURING THE DAY

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