Sea, sun, and city: a warm mix in Marseille

But Marseille has come up in the world. This diverse, cosmopolitan city of 850,000 on the Mediterranean is not without problems, including high unemployment and a continued reputation for mob-related crime. But its safety and image have vastly improved. Residents tout it as “the new Barcelona,’’ and it has been designated a European capital of culture for 2013, a distinction that typically boosts tourism.

Last summer when I had spent a month in Provence, I finally gave Marseille a try and found myself returning again and again.

Marseille has 35 miles of coastline and is still one of the leading commercial ports on the Mediterranean, though shipping has been rerouted north. Vieux Port, or Old Port, the heart of the city, today is a terminal for boat tours and an enormous pleasure craft marina.

On my second trip, my daughter and I were treated to a tour by a friend, Anny Moussu, who has lived here for 20 years. She took us to the famed 19th-century basilica, Notre-Dame de la Guard, which is perched on a bluff, the highest point of Marseille.

The view alone makes this trip worth the climb (or bus ride). From 532 feet above sea level, the wraparound terrace looks down on the bay and the Frioul Islands, four islands that include Château d’If, the prison that was the setting for Alexandre Dumas’s “The Count of Monte Cristo.’’

Notre-Dame de la Garde’s interior is decorated with inlaid marble, mosaics, and murals. Model boats hang from the ceiling. On the wall, there are plaques, letters, paintings, War World II medals and flags — all offerings from parishioners. Anny pointed out the shirts given by players and supporters of Olympique de Marseille, the local football (soccer) team. It all has a playful, nautical feel, and a charm that comes from the visible connection to the community.

Anny, who grew up in Strasbourg in the north, says the warm climate and seaside nature of Marseille keep her living here. An avid swimmer, she took us to her favorite local beach, known as “insiders’ beach.’’ Plage des Abri Côtiers, which means coastal shelter, offered clean water, an intimate sand-and-pebble shore, and a backdrop of tall buildings that blocked the wind.