We set out to sample these dishes at four locations: Zaftigs Delicatessen and Rubin’s Kosher Restaurant Delicatessen, both in Brookline; Barry’s Village Deli in Waban; and Maxie’s Delicatessen in Stoughton. No one restaurant clearly triumphs at all three dishes, though each establishment has its strengths. A visit to any of them promises a cultural immersion.
A traditional Reuben consists of six elements: corned beef, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, Swiss cheese, and rye bread, all grilled until the cheese melts, with brown mustard served on the side. At Zaftigs, the corned beef is soft and succulent, and owes as much to its presentation as it does to its flavor. Unlike the tightly packed wad found in many sandwiches, Zaftigs gently layers its thinly sliced brined meat in a loose, airy weave. The appealing technique might result in less beef, but the lower density better showcases its tenderness. Dressing, sauerkraut, and Swiss are as good here as anywhere else, which is to say unremarkable. These ingredients varied imperceptibly, if at all, from deli to deli, which is too bad. Greater variety would allow for more distinctive interpretations of this classic.
Large pieces of butter-soft carrots bob in Zaftigs’ matzo ball soup, but the bowl suffers from under-salted broth and under-seasoned matzo balls, too. This simple soup verges on bland and tastes as though it were made with light vegetable broth instead of real chicken. Chopped liver is a stronger showing, with an ideal salt content, a little sweet ness, and a consistency that is slightly coarse and not too dense. The appetizer portion, served with red pepper slices, black olives, and a too-hard-boiled egg, could easily appease four.
The most attractive plate of liver — no easy feat — goes to Rubin’s. Here a dome of liver comes with four round crackers and a festive array of red and yellow bell peppers, tomato, and red onion. The thoughtful and cheery plating is enough to delight even the most old-fashioned diners, who expect their chopped liver apportioned with a hunk of bread.
