Picture this: tapas between galleries in Chelsea

September 12, 2010|Nina Roberts, Globe Correspondent

The Chelsea neighborhood is dense with over 200 galleries, from small artist-run cooperatives to powerhouses such as Pace, Gagosian, and Mathew Marks. A day of gallery hopping here can leave an art lover depleted. The perfect way to bolster one’s stamina is to dip into several of the local tapas bars throughout the day.

Since most galleries open at 10 a.m., try a Spanish breakfast at El Quinto Pino, which opens at 8, Monday through Friday. This is a tiny space with a circular marble bar, Spanish tiles, and about 20 stools for seating. Offerings include a handful of savory and sweet breakfast items. Among them are a classic potato tortilla, bread with tomato and garlic, and churros with dulce de leche.

During the day the centrally located Tía Pol, one of the pioneering tapas places here, is the best choice for a quick bite. A perch at the bar, especially on a nice day when the front is open onto 10th Avenue, is an ideal spot for people watching.

The long, narrow restaurant has been a neighborhood staple for six years. Besides numerous daily specials, the menu has over 30 tapas items, from razor clams to lamb skewers to octopus terrine. “Croquetas de jamón,’’ ham croquettes, a basic tapas item, are divine here, with a perfectly crispy outside and a warm, creamy center. A recent croquette of the day was an outstanding Swiss chard and leek combination; previously, a beer and Manchego cheese.

If you plan to make a meal out of several tapas, ask your waiter about portion size. Some establishments have family-style ordering, others don’t, and most menus don’t give the number of items in an order. All tapas bars have “raciones,’’ a more substantial meal for one person, such as paella, steak, or suckling pig.

El Quinto Pino is also open for lunch and dinner, when it turns into a ruckus affair with music and 30-somethings socializing. If your eardrums can handle it, try the outstanding “fideua,’’ noodle paella with pieces of baby octopus and shrimp and a smear of aioli, and the sea urchin panini, which has become legendary in the city’s foodie circles.

Going out for tapas at night is supposed to be a little chaotic, but if being squished into cramped bar spaces is spilling wine on your new art catalogs, try Txikito. It’s a soothing, modern space with wooden walls and red tables and chairs — stools only at the bar. Txikito specializes in food from the Basque region of Spain where tapas are called “pintxos’’ and traditionally served on a piece of bread with a toothpick through the center.

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