The Sox' other farm team

Fenway's Aramark hits on a winning idea by sending its chefs and culinary students to see where food is grown

September 08, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff

On a sweltering July day, a group of chefs and young culinary students in T-shirts and shorts trails after Jim Ward, co-owner with brother Bob of Ward’s Berry Farm in Sharon. He leads them through his fields, showing off burgeoning rows of beets, greens, tomatoes, potatoes, and more. They pause to eat spicy radishes yanked straight from the ground. They shake their heads at how much work it takes to grow corn. “One ear per stalk,’’ a tall, skinny kid marvels. “Isn’t it crazy?’’

A month later, clad in crisp white jackets, the same group is hard at work in the open kitchen of Fenway Park’s EMC Club, operated by Aramark. Senior executive chef Ron Abell slices tomatoes of the ripest red. Behind him, Christine Sampson peels melon to be wrapped in prosciutto, while John Mulcahy cuts kernels from ears of corn, setting aside the cobs to make stock. The produce they saw growing at the farm is on its way to the table, in the form of heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad, antipasti, and lobster and corn chowder.

In restaurants around Boston, chefs are increasingly turning toward local, seasonal ingredients. This, they say, supports area farmers and producers, reduces the amount of fuel used to transport ingredients, and results in fresher, better-tasting food.

But a ballpark known for hot dogs might not be the place one would expect to find baby carrots and wax beans grown on a family farm. For the past several years, the chefs at Fenway have been steadily incorporating regional products into the menus for the EMC and Pavilion clubs, some of the most expensive seats in the park. Currently, nearly all of the ingredients used in the ballpark’s premium areas are local — particularly at the peak of New England’s growing season. “Right now, everything is,’’ Abell says. “Everything but onions.’’

Vegetables come from Ward’s. Much of the seafood is caught in New England waters or raised in the region. The cheddar on the cheeseburgers is from Vermont, and the pickles alongside are made by local company Grillo’s Pickles. Because what’s in season is constantly changing, the menu is too. (Concession stands feature some local products, like hot dogs from Chelsea’s Kayem and fruit from Ward’s, but for the most part they still rely on larger distributors like Sysco.)

Abell and executive chef Steve Postal have backgrounds in fine dining. Abell worked at the now-defunct South End restaurant Icarus, Postal at Cambridge’s Oleana. At Fenway, the chefs buy from many of the same purveyors they used at small, upscale restaurants.

“We just added a few more zeros to the orders,’’ Abell says. Where once he might have requested 30 pounds of tomatoes, now he could need 300 or more.

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