Factory to farm takes you to where your cheese started toward your cracker

August 15, 2010|Patricia Harris and David Lyon, Globe Correspondents

CABOT — When we arrived a few minutes early for a tour of the Cabot Creamery cheese factory here, we were directed to the back room, armed with toothpicks and napkins, and turned loose on bowls of cheese morsels. We started with the Mild cheddar and worked our way up to Seriously Sharp and Vintage before our tour was called. The assorted dips and flavored cheddars such as horseradish, sage, chipotle, or smoky bacon would have to wait.

Cabot is the largest of the 41 members of the Vermont Cheese Council. Predictably enough, the tour begins with a short video that recounts the origin of the Cabot Cooperative, formed in 1919 when 94 farmers each chipped in a cord of wood and $5 per cow to buy out the Cabot village creamery. This Cabot plant (one of three and the only one open for tours) produces the company’s cultured milk products as well as the flavored cheddars and cheddar wheels. The short walk through the modern facility — viewed through large windows — is great for fact-mongers. We learned that the facility can store 1 million pounds of milk, that it makes 43 tons of cheddar a day at full production, and that each pound of cheese requires 10 pounds of milk.

We also learned that nowadays roughly 1,200 farms in New England and upstate New York belong to the cooperative. A few of them operate B&Bs, making it possible to slide into a farm family’s life for a day or so to get a real appreciation of where that cheese begins.

When Beth and Bob Kennett bought Liberty Hill Farm in Rochester, in March 1979, it was already a work ing dairy farm. Former owner “John Hunt milked one night, and Bob milked the next morning,’’ said Beth. In 1984, when the bottom dropped out of wholesale milk prices, the Kennetts began taking in overnight guests in the rambling 1825 farmhouse. “It’s all original,’’ Beth said, “but we repurposed some of the rooms. The downstairs bedrooms, for example, used to be the woodshed.’’

In all, there are seven bedrooms and four bathrooms for guests, though when the house isn’t full Beth tends to spread people out to minimize sharing. Like the family, guests leave their shoes on the front porch before coming inside. The porch also holds a wide assortment of gum boots in adult and children’s sizes to wear while exploring the barns or mucking around the calf pens.

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