Q. You’re in town from Pennsylvania to host a benefit dinner for the James Beard Foundation tomorrow with chef Tony Maws. Leading up to it, you’ve been giving workshops at his restaurant, Craigie on Main. You’re teaching how to use the likes of hydrocolloids, liquid nitrogen, and transglutaminase. What do such ingredients bring to cooking?
Kamozawa Using hydrocolloids teaches cooks to work with more precision. It allows you to have a clear expression of ingredients.
Talbot A number of these things were once looked at in an industrial sense — how they could be used to extend shelf life. Now they’re in the hands of skilled chefs and people passionate about ingredients. When we first started cooking, cooks would make butternut squash puree by adding fat. A lot of it. Now we’ve got so many farmers and foragers, and we’re getting the best ingredients. You don’t need to taste the butter. You can have an incredible squash puree and thicken it with xanthan gum. It reveals a nuance you didn’t know about.
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