Bit of the past, bite of the present

Stoddard’s best dish may be ballotine of rabbit, tender rounds of pancetta-wrapped meat stuffed with rabbit mousse. On the side are spiced prune compote, sauteed nettles, and glazed salsify. The sweetness of the prunes and bitterness of the greens complement the rabbit’s richness.

Dessert, however, may be the restaurant’s weakest point. A ganache-like chocolate terrine comes with dried, chewy pomegranate seeds. It ought to come with a side of floss. Rhubarb panna cotta is far too stiff and barely tastes like rhubarb. Even a bourbon float needs more ice cream.

Well-mixed cocktails compensate. The list draws from Jerry Thomas’s “How to Mix Drinks or the Bon Vivant’s Companion,’’ first published in 1862: Brandy Crustas, Gin Slings, and the like. It also features a house punch that is fruity without being too sweet. The secret recipe may involve bourbon and port. “We were inspired to create a cocktail program that rekindled the creative spirit of our forefathers, considering that the cocktail was basically America’s only gift to the culinary world,’’ the menu boldly states. (Tell that to gumbo, corn bread, barbecue, and other regional specialties.)

Service can be uneven, particularly when the place is busy. Orders are occasionally mixed up or misdelivered, and there can be a wait for food or attention. But the servers are sweet and impressively well schooled in Stoddard’s beer list, readily offering descriptions and recommendations. Some are a bit weaker when it comes to food. Explaining why the accompaniments on one dish have changed, our server informs us that “ramps are out of season, and they don’t want to use canned vegetables.’’ That is good to know.

Stoddard’s Fine Food & Ale lives up to its billing, offering both. It gives tourists a taste of living Boston history. It gives locals a good-looking hangout and a reasonable price point. And it gives everyone a shoeshine. Come scuffed and hungry.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.