The sweet smell of excess

When adventurous diners wish upon a star, Barbara Lynch has plenty of answers at Menton

July 14, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff
(Page 3 of 3)

The show is what you’re paying for, what makes Menton work, what makes Menton worth its price, even if only for one crazy night. Dinner for one is $95 or $145, for a four-course prix fixe or seven-course chef’s tasting. These are your only options. That’s before wine. And it’s before you pay the you’re-kidding-me upcharge of $8 and $12 for lobster salad and langoustines, respectively: At these prices, there should be no upcharge. But it is possible to spend not-that-much-less for a much lesser experience.

Quibbles: Desserts aren’t always as intriguing as some of the other courses. On slower nights, without the bustle of other tables, the attentions of so many servers are slightly overwhelming. And to the staff member who feels compelled to comment, every time two women finish a tiny course or a half-pour of the wine pairing they are splitting, “You hated that, didn’t you?’’: No, we hated you.

But we won’t wish you any harm, because at Menton wishes tend to have consequences.

When the girl from Southie walks into this restaurant in her old backyard and thinks, “I made this come true,’’ it must feel damn good.

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.

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