À la Provençal, in moderation

July 11, 2010|Sarah Hearn, Globe Correspondent
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However, not all of our meals were taken in restaurants. A morning trip to Mireille’s local market was a sensory delight: huge vats of aromatic paella, golden chickens roasting, local goat cheese, honeys, and jams to sample, and bounties of beautiful produce to admire. Local pottery and handmade espadrilles rounded out the offerings. After a few tastes and several purchases, we returned home ready for lunch. Edward had picked up a juicy roasted chicken from their favorite butcher and Mireille quickly made ratatouille with the eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes she had bought. A baguette, some wine, and for dessert, cavaillon melons with a sprinkling of Muscat de Beaumes de Venises completed lunch.

With a bit of planning you can visit a market any day of the week and make picnicking a treat. The best way to see the region on your own is to pick a base and rent a car. With a map or GPS and signs along the roads, it is relatively easy to tour around. Provence comprises small cities (Aix en Provence, Avignon), large towns (St. Remy de Provence, Arles), and magical little villages with lyrical names (Lourmarin, Cucuron, Eygalieres). You will find cyclists, hikers, and campers are out in legions spring, summer, and fall.

I came to Provence for a summer escape, ready to absorb the rhythm of French living. Despite several decadent meals I felt rejuvenated . . . perhaps it was Mireille’s maxims of moderation, the daily walks and swims, or slowing down to “Provençal’’ time. Whatever it was, it worked.

I returned to Boston with a plan to introduce a bit of Provence into my daily routine: Some things were easy (wine with dinner? done) and some required rejiggering of the schedule (exercise), but these lessons from one savvy Frenchwoman were ones I intended to follow. If I need to go back to Provence for the occasional “refresher’’ course, so be it.

Sarah Hearn can be reached at shearn78@gmail.com.

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