Ocean view enhances hearty meal

There were just two of us, so we began conservatively, splitting a tomato mozzarella stack ($10) as our appetizer. Beefsteak tomato slices were topped with hearty wedges of mozzarella cheese, filaments of red onion, and a sprinkling of fresh basil. Olive oil and balsamic vinegar were drizzled over the stack. This tasty opening was enjoyable and easily adequate for the two of us.

Those looking for a more substantial beginning would have a wide variety from which to choose: calamari, mussels, shrimp skewers, and black and white sesame seed-encrusted ahi tuna, to basics like onion rings, french fries, Buffalo tenders, and mac and cheese.

Prices for appetizers run from $9 to $12.

For our main course, my companion ordered fish and chips ($16), featuring a generous piece of scrod, which she characterized as “moist and flaky’’ before handily polishing it off. The meal also included a serving of crispy fries.

I ordered the chicken marsala ($16.95), with two large pieces of chicken breast, sautéed in a wine reduction flavored with shallots, garlic, and mushroom. The combination was served over a bed of scrumptious cheese-filled tortellini, rather than the usual pasta, which was a welcome surprise. I was only able to eat about half of what was served. While I usually forgo doggie bags, this was much too good to leave behind.

For dessert, we sampled the crème brulee cheesecake and a large slice of red velvet cake with rich chocolate frosting and raspberry filling. I would recommend either ($7 each), since both were great, but the cheesecake was definitely the favorite, since its super-light texture was welcome after our substantial main meals.

The Waterfront Bar & Grill bears no resemblance at all to the Crow’s Nest, the building’s former tenant. New owner Mike Cardelle spent the spring gutting the old restaurant and totally reconfiguring the space. The result is a larger dining room downstairs, far more upscale in appearance than its predecessor.

The upper level, which features a sizeable oval bar with high-top tables arranged along its perimeter, leads to the outdoor deck.

The Waterfront Bar & Grill’s menu is extensive, so it’s great for families. It offers a wide selection of seafood, chicken, and beef, along with sandwiches and burgers, interesting salads that are easily converted to meals with a top-off of meat or fish, and heartier full dinners.

Sandwiches are priced $7 to $10, and full meals $17 to $21. While 10-inch pizzas were listed on the menu, the pizza oven was not yet installed when we visited.

One of the best parts of this experience on the night we visited was that we could walk off all those extra calories in a beautiful coastal setting.

Christine Legere