They can dig it

A restaurant’s garden, either on the roof or a nearby farm, inspires chefs — and supports sustainability

July 07, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff

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But there’s an educational element to it, too. “For a 22-year-old line cook who has worked in restaurants for two years, fresh thyme is basically something that comes in a little bundle with a rubber band around it. This happens over and over with my staff: I take them up and they go, ‘Wow! That’s what it looks like!’ ’’

Johnson grows radishes, peppers, and a few other things, but mainly herbs. “It doesn’t supply all our needs, but it serves a purpose,’’ he says. With 14 bushes of rosemary, he hasn’t purchased the herb in two years. This year he’s growing enough mint and chives that he probably won’t have to buy them, either. “I never viewed it as anything that was going to really save me money,’’ he says. “But a pound of rosemary a week is 10 bucks, and I’m going on 120 weeks, so that’s more than $1,000 I’ve saved in rosemary. It goes to the employee Christmas party.’’

The first few years of farming or gardening require an investment, but after that it can pay off for a restaurant. Last year, Coombs says, he grew just under $5,000 in produce on dbar’s roof; this year he’s shooting for $6,000-$7,000.

McClelland says he lost money on Apple Street Farm in its first season; this year he may break even.

But none of these chefs is doing it for financial reasons. “I’m doing it to inspire myself and the chefs and everyone who works with me,’’ McClelland says. “You’re going to see more chefs and restaurateurs moving in this direction. In five to 10 years, it’s going to be more of the norm. If you’re really serious about your cuisine, you’re going to do this.’’

Increasingly, culinary ambition and environmental awareness go hand in hand. Sustainability is a buzzword; chefs today think about how meat, fish, and fowl are raised, how far produce has traveled to get to their kitchens, the impact of production methods. Growing their own ingredients is about creating delicious food, and for a long time to come.

So why go to the trouble of installing a giant garden way up in the sky in the middle of Dorchester? “It’s the way we should be going,’’ says Suarez of Ledge Kitchen & Drinks. “We’re not treating this earth well. Other cities have tax incentives. We are hoping Boston will come around — that’s part of the deal.’’

Devra First can be reached at dfirst@globe.com.

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