A paradise filled with fine dining

June 23, 2010|Devra First, Globe Staff

On islands geared toward tourism, food can be stunningly mediocre. Talk about a captive audience. But not Nantucket. It caters to a crowd chefs describe as both knowledgeable and demanding when it comes to dining. Eating well comes at a price, of course — there are high rents and high food costs to offset. And the market will bear it, if less than it once did.

“Last year, everyone lowered their prices,’’ says Pigalle chef Marc Orfaly, formerly of the Summer House. “The Bernie Madoff stuff all seems somewhere far away on the news until all those people affected in Florida aren’t able to use their homes on Nantucket. I found an old Summer House menu from 10 years back, and it’s amazing how high the prices were. You couldn’t do that today.’’

At the higher end, prices can be comparable with those at Boston restaurants or higher. There’s less in the midrange, and cheap eats are hard to find. A lobster roll will routinely run you $20, and it will rarely be worth it. Steering clear of imported ingredients such as avocado, maple syrup, and cheese can help keep the bill lower. Restaurant websites tend not to list prices, just as Nantucket realtors leave them off the listings in their windows.

But you didn’t come to Nantucket for the cheap eats, did you? Here you’ll find stunningly fresh seafood, restaurants stylish and cozy, and food that at its best can rival that on the mainland. Where to eat on Nantucket this season? Read on.

American Seasons

This is the restaurant most often recommended by island chefs I spoke with. A romantic little spot, it features chef Michael LaScola’s creative, very delicious, quite rich food. (P.B.R.-braised Buffalo-style pork belly with blue cheese fondant, anyone?) There’s also a cozy bar and a menu of small plates. I love the crisp, tart fried green tomatoes with smoky crawfish butter, and the scallop and beef cheek pastrami “sandwich,’’ a mouthful of savory flavors balanced by a nutty, sharp hit from rye brioche. 80 Centre St., 508-228-7111. www.americanseasons.com. Appetizers $13-$17. Entrees $26-$36. Desserts $9-$11. Small plates $6.

Black-Eyed Susan’s

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