Where seafood and the sea meet

When Rowes Wharf Sea Grille arrived on the scene last year to general acclaim, it seemed a possible end to this state of affairs. Located at the Boston Harbor Hotel, it offers an unbeatable eyeful of harbor and a menu from chef Daniel Bruce. With its lovely patio recently reopened for the season, it’s time to take another look.

Before it was the Sea Grille, this space was called the Intrigue Cafe. With Bruce’s dishes, it posthumously lives up to that billing. The restaurant offers cod-filled corn empanadas with lemon-caper tartar sauce; roasted Maine lobster with corn pudding; caramelized jumbo sea scallops with black quinoa and red kuri squash sauce. . . . This is far from seafood in the rough. The dishes promise polish. Sometimes they deliver. Too often, sides are boring and bland; fish is overcooked.

Anything raw here is wonderful — the seafood is high quality, and these presentations showcase that to the utmost. There is an ever-changing selection of oysters, from Island Creek to Malpeque to the lovely Kusshi, from British Columbia and not yet frequently spotted in these parts. Briny and sparklingly fresh, they are served with saffron mignonette and Meyer lemon cocktail sauce. The condiments are very good, but the saffron and Meyer lemon offer more in terms of menu atmospherics than taste. Still, evocative menu description serves its purpose. It’s gustatory foreplay.

Slices of hamachi are served raw on a long plate, touched with a drizzle of miso and lime, accented by a tiny pouf of salad. The crudo is cooling and refreshing; eating it induces serenity and satisfaction.

Then you’re ready for a party. The menu offers a short list of fun finger food for sharing. Empanadas are miniaturized, the golden corncakes filled with cod, a New England twist. The dough is just right, a little crispy, a little soft. The salty empanadas pair well with lemon tartar sauce for dipping.