CORIANDER BISTRO ***
Coriander’s menu ranges far and wide: through India, from north to south to west, to the native Nepal of the owners, from street snacks to Anglo-inflected specialties, homey dal to complex curries. There are nearly 100 main dishes to sample and almost 20 kinds of bread alone. The variety is not the only reason you could eat here often. Chef Dammar Thapa went to culinary school in India, and his resume includes stints at a five-star hotel in Katmandu and on cruise ships. His food is deftly spiced and prepared with an unusually fine touch. 5 Post Office Square, Sharon, 781-784-2300, http://www.corianderbistro.net
EAST COAST GRILL ** ½
This year, East Coast Grill celebrates its 25th anniversary. There is nothing subtle about its success, predicated on internal-organ-scorching hot sauces, smoke and flames, hunks of meat, and creatures pulled from the sea. It’s a restaurant a caveman or a polar bear could love. But Boston loves it best. Unselfconscious, cheerfully kitschy, East Coast Grill is the jolly uncle of local restaurants – back-slapping, fun-loving, perhaps slightly embarrassing in certain company. It exists to make people happy, and it clearly does its job. 1271 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, 617-491-6568, http://www.eastcoastgrill.net
LEGAL C BAR **
This Legal Sea Foods spinoff is an amalgam of things that are officially trendy: small plates, casual dining, craft cocktails. Located in Legacy Place, it opened at the end of December (there’s another branch in Logan Airport), clearly aiming at twenty- and thirtysomethings. The surprise is that this bid for hipness actually works. The place is modern and well designed, with good cocktails and decent food. For Dedham, it’s a great addition, as you can see from the crowds. Legacy Place, Dedham, 781-234-6500, http://www.legalcbar.com
LUCCA BACK BAY ** ½
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