Where to eat

's food critic recommended lately? Here, a grab bag of old favorites revisited and new entries on the scene.

June 06, 2010|Devra First

**** Extraordinary *** Excellent ** Good * Fair (No stars) Poor

BON SAVOR **

Hail, Boston, city of neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive flavors. In JP, for instance, there’s Bon Savor. The menu splits its time between France and South America, with relaxed, happy dishes such as steak frites with chimichurri and moqueca de peixe, the Brazilian seafood stew. Bon Savor is not the kind of restaurant you go out of your way for – it’s the kind you eat at, regularly and gladly, in your own neck of the woods. 605 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, 617-971-0000, http://www.bonsavor.com

CORIANDER BISTRO ***

Coriander’s menu ranges far and wide: through India, from north to south to west, to the native Nepal of the owners, from street snacks to Anglo-inflected specialties, homey dal to complex curries. There are nearly 100 main dishes to sample and almost 20 kinds of bread alone. The variety is not the only reason you could eat here often. Chef Dammar Thapa went to culinary school in India, and his resume includes stints at a five-star hotel in Katmandu and on cruise ships. His food is deftly spiced and prepared with an unusually fine touch. 5 Post Office Square, Sharon, 781-784-2300, http://www.corianderbistro.net

EAST COAST GRILL ** ½

This year, East Coast Grill celebrates its 25th anniversary. There is nothing subtle about its success, predicated on internal-organ-scorching hot sauces, smoke and flames, hunks of meat, and creatures pulled from the sea. It’s a restaurant a caveman or a polar bear could love. But Boston loves it best. Unselfconscious, cheerfully kitschy, East Coast Grill is the jolly uncle of local restaurants – back-slapping, fun-loving, perhaps slightly embarrassing in certain company. It exists to make people happy, and it clearly does its job. 1271 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, 617-491-6568, http://www.eastcoastgrill.net

LEGAL C BAR **

This Legal Sea Foods spinoff is an amalgam of things that are officially trendy: small plates, casual dining, craft cocktails. Located in Legacy Place, it opened at the end of December (there’s another branch in Logan Airport), clearly aiming at twenty- and thirtysomethings. The surprise is that this bid for hipness actually works. The place is modern and well designed, with good cocktails and decent food. For Dedham, it’s a great addition, as you can see from the crowds. Legacy Place, Dedham, 781-234-6500, http://www.legalcbar.com

LUCCA BACK BAY ** ½

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