Sensational scallions

Fresh ideas for green onions.

June 06, 2010|Adam Ried

Scallions are often overlooked. And that’s a shame, because their oniony flavor, at once mild and spry, can certainly carry a dish. Think of that favorite Chinese restaurant appetizer, the scallion pancake: Warm, fried, and redolent with allium, classic scallion pancakes can be complicated and finicky to make at home. Scallion crepes, on the other hand, deliver the same satisfying flavors in a package that is easy to prepare. Scallion-stuffed beef rolls are a Japanese favorite, and a pickling mixture spiked with coriander, star anise, and lime gives scallions a Laotian twist.

Scallion Crepes

Makes about 8 6-to-7-inch crepes

I consider these crepes to be finger food, perfect for folding or rolling, dipping (see Kitchen Aide for a sauce I like), and gobbling down.

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon Asian toasted sesame oil

½teaspoon sugar

½teaspoon grated ginger, optional

Salt and pepper

½cup milk

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 bunch scallions (about ¼ pound), thinly sliced

1 to 2 teaspoons peanut or canola oil, for cooking

In a blender or food processor, process the eggs, sesame oil, sugar, ginger, if using, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, milk, and ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons water to blend well, about 5 seconds. Add the flour and process to form a smooth batter (a little thicker than heavy cream), about 5 seconds. Pour the batter into a bowl, cover, and rest for at least 15 minutes. Add the scallions and stir to mix.

In a small nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat about ½ teaspoon peanut or canola oil until very hot. With a heat-safe silicone brush, brush the cooking oil across the bottom of the pan. Pour a scant 1/3 cup batter into the skillet and immediately tilt it around; this will make a very thin 6- or 7-inch circle of batter. Cook until the bottom of the crepe is light golden brown, about 1½ minutes. With a heatproof, nonstick spatula, loosen the crepe, flip it over, and cook until the second side is light golden brown and the edges are slightly crisp, about 1½ minutes longer. Slide the crepe onto a plate and serve at once with dipping sauce, or cover loosely with foil to keep warm while cooking the rest of the crepes. Repeat the process with the remaining crepe batter, adding another ½ teaspoon of cooking oil after every third or fourth crepe and adjusting the heat, if necessary.

Japanese-style Beef and Scallion Rolls (Negima)

Makes 8 small rolls

These rolls can be grilled over a hot fire or broiled instead of pan-fried, but you’ll still need a skillet if you make the sauce. Make sure to warn diners about the toothpicks!

¼ cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Asian toasted sesame oil

1½ tablespoons sugar

2 cloves garlic, grated or minced to a paste

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger