Neighborhood Mexican fare

May 26, 2010|Kathleen Burge, Globe Staff

When Something Savory, a little gem of a restaurant in Arlington Heights, closed last year, fans were disappointed by the ethnic chasm it left in the neighborhood. But the earthy colors of the storefront restaurant are once again in bloom: La Posada, a homegrown family-run restaurant, began serving Mexican food here last month.

La Posada, which has eight tables, doesn’t take reservations and so on a Friday night, we wait about 15 minutes for a table for five. There’s no place inside to linger, but the night is warm and we while away the time peering into the windows of Balich 5 & 10 next door, filled with plastic ocean creatures and other curiosities. We’re eventually seated in the back of the restaurant, near a table bearing the cash register and a picture of a young girl — we see her coming out of the kitchen later — whose family owns the restaurant.

The menu tells us the guacamole en molcajete ($7.75) — molcajete is a stone implement used to mash the avocado — will be prepared at our table, though that’s only partly true. The avocado has already been mashed and seasoned, and our waitress adds cilantro, onions, tomatoes. She leaves the small bowl of jalapenos on the side, as requested. One complaint: La Posada is skimpy with its homemade tortilla chips, both the complimentary bowl served with salsa at the start of the meal and the accompaniment to guacamole.

One of the most expensive things on this budget-priced menu is carne asada ($12.95), steak rubbed with spices before it is grilled. The meat, though a bit tough along the edges, is a salty feast, topped with a cheese enchilada. Callitos (pictured, $11.95), scallops sauteed with mushrooms and tomatoes, arrive with a caramelized crust. Chile verde ($7.95) is our favorite burrito, braised beef and caramelized onions with an earthy poblano pepper sauce. Enchiladas en tomate ($8.95) comes from an old family recipe, corn tortillas filled with shredded chicken and topped with a tomato and jalapeno sauce.

La Posada has no liquor license, but the restaurant serves interesting nonalcoholic drinks, including aqua frescas, or cold, sweet drinks. We love horchata ($2), made from rice and sugar, sweet enough but not treacly. Tres leches cake ($3.95), however, is very sweet, and happily so, the most sought-after dessert at our table one night. Flan ($3.95) is also quite good, though it seems amiss served atop a square of chocolate cake. Why mess with the simple beauty of an authentic sweet custard?

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