Building a perfect loaf from the grain up

May 19, 2010|Nicole Cammorata

There’s not much to a loaf of bread, right? Not so. For William Alexander, author of “52 Loaves,’’ there are issues of the correct crust-to-crumb ratio, the right water content for the dough, the precise amount of rising time, kneading time, baking time, and temperature. You get it.

On a mission not unlike Julie Powell’s quest in “Julie & Julia’’ to learn the recipes in Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,’’ Alexander spends 12 months baking a loaf of bread a week in search of perfection. He tasted it before years ago at a New York restaurant and is determined to reproduce the perfect peasant loaf himself.

Alexander’s breathless, witty memoir is a joy to read. It’s equal parts fact and fun as he visits a yeast factory, enrolls in a bread-baking seminar in Paris, and wins second place in the New York State Fair bread competition, Category 02, Yeast Breads. He also peppers his narrative with insights into the historical significance of the staff of life.

Like Powell, Alexander’s mission is about more than food. We get a hint of this when, en route to France, he tries to get sourdough starter (which looks suspiciously like plastic explosive) past an airport security checkpoint. He explains that an order of monks in France needs to learn how to make bread and that he has been asked to teach them. He is on “a mission from God.’’

Alexander’s tongue-in-cheek embrace of the spirituality of his mission is reflected in his use of the monastery’s schedule of daily rituals as names for his chapters: Vigils, Lauds, Terce, Sext, None, Vespers, and Compline.

The genesis of Alexander’s project springs organically from his life. A technology director by day, on nights and weekends he plays master gardener and baker to wife Anne and their children, Zach and Katie. He longs for a simpler way of life and favors the solace of the kitchen.

“Bread baking is as homey, as removed from technology, factories, and engines, as you can get,’’ Alexander writes. He is a self-proclaimed “charter subscriber to the school of thought that ‘true’ bread, the stuff of peasants, has only four ingredients: flour, water, yeast, and salt.’’ Despite his distaste for social situations, Alexander is wildly entertaining on the page, dropping clever one-liners in the form of footnotes and parenthetical afterthoughts throughout.

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