Where modern meets ancient

For millennia a crossroads and trade center, the Arabian Peninsula barters its deep black gold for soaring ambitions

May 16, 2010|Claudia Capos, Globe Correspondent

DUBAI — As the desert sun burns through the morning haze, Peter and Alysha St. Germain admire the lofty 360-degree view of Dubai from the 124th-floor observation deck of the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest skyscraper. “This is really impressive,’’ says Peter, formerly of Westhampton, now working in nearby Abu Dhabi. “Dubai has done so many amazing projects to attract world attention.’’ Adds Alysha, “The view is awesome.’’

Piercing the heavens like a silver rocket, the half-mile-high tower, visible from 60 miles away, was formally dedicated in January, following six challenging years of construction. At 2,717 feet (and 162 stories), it easily topped its closest rival, the nondescript Tapei 101 Tower (1,670 feet). The Armani Hotel, which opened last month, is the first of many well-heeled tenants that will occupy space in this “vertical city.’’ Little wonder the Burj Khalifa has quickly become the new emblem of this dynamic city on the southeastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula.

Far below the tower, Susan Ceukar stands on the outer edge of the Palm-Jumeirah, a manmade, palm-shaped island extending into the Persian Gulf. The 12-square-mile isle of artificial turf, built with sand and quarried rock, is the first and the smallest of three palm islands under development in what has been billed as the largest-ever land-reclamation project. Nearby, another ambitious island grouping is being constructed in the shape of the world.

Ceukar, from Melrose, marvels at Palm-Jumeirah’s luxury condominiums and hotels. “The changes that have taken place in Dubai over the last 12 years are incredible,’’ she says, though this is her first visit. “It’s hard to imagine that not so long ago this area was just desert and water.’’ The blend of ancient and modern architecture and traditional Arab culture fascinate her, but the city’s endless traffic congestion is another matter. “I thought Boston was bad,’’ Ceukar says. “Still, Dubai is very clean and safe. And the people are wonderful.’’

In a race to outshine the six neighboring sheikdoms that, with Dubai, form the United Arab Emirates, Dubai’s ruling Al Maktoum family, fueled by oil money, has accelerated its efforts to transform this former fishing village into the most modern, cosmopolitan city in the Middle East. Leading architects and deep-pocketed developers have erected ornate skyscrapers and hotels — notably, the sail-shaped, seven-star Burj Al Arab — that seem to defy gravity and design principles.

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